Highest quality wilderness education and experience possible that protects the user and the environment




"Route finding, evaluating weather and its effect on the snow pack, digging study and test pits..."




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Alaska A Climbing Guide, Mike Wood, Colby Coombs, book, buy online
Alaska: A Climbing Guide

by Mike Wood, Colby Coombs



Denali West Buttress, Climbers Guide To McKinleys Classic Route, Colby Coombs, book, buy online
Denali's West Buttress — A Climber's Guide To McKinley's Classic Route

by Colby Coombs

Expert instruction on every aspect of climbing the route; Bradford Washburn's historic aerial photos

Extreme Alpinism, Mark Twight, Book, buy online
Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High

by Mark Twight & James Martin

Primer for serious mountaineers from one of the boldest alpine climbers. Revolutionary.

Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills, Don Graydon, book, buy online
Mountaineering — Freedom of the Hills

by Don Graydon

Classic climbing text; solid info on all aspects of mountain, rock and ice climbing. (Paperback)


Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Andy Selters, book, buy online
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

by Andy Selters

Mountaineering classic on glaciers, crevasse rescue, route finding, gear, etc.

Mount McKinley Conquest of Denali, Brad Washburn, Roberts, photos, book, buy online
Mount McKinley: Conquest of Denali

by Washburn & Roberts

Gorgeous photos, classic stories, and definitive history


Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley: 1903-1990

by Jonathan Waterman

Comprehensive accounts of what can go wrong and how to avoid gruesome epics

High Alaska
by Jonathan Waterman

Climbing history & guidebook to Alaska Range: tells of pioneer & other significant climbs; Washburn photos


Alaska Mountaineering School
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Glacier Travel Workshop

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The Glacier Travel Workshop provides an introductory level of instruction on the climbing techniques necessary to travel safely on a glacier. The first morning is spent teaching basic knots, wearing a harness, using crampons, self-arrest position, placing ice screws, and building anchors. After a lunch we practice rope coiling, belaying, and stacking for glacier travel. Students break into rope teams and practice traveling and route finding skills. From this we go into simulated crevasse fall scenarios from simple assistance to raising systems, but all on flat terrain. The morning of the second day is spent at a cliff lowering victims over the edge so they can practice fixed-line ascension while the rescuers set up hauling systems. The afternoon is spent roping up for glacier travel in 2, 3, and 4 person teams and incorporating extras such as sleds.


Tuition Includes: Instruction, group climbing equipment: ropes, ice screws, group carabiners, webbing
Does not include: Transportation, lodging, personal climbing equipment, Glacier Park Resort gate fee - $8 for AMS students

Prerequisites: This is an entry level climbing course with a large amount of curriculum so come prepared to receive a lot of information. You can help prepare by reading The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, by Mike Clelland and Andy Tyson, published by Climbing Magazine and available at book stores or by calling AMS. AMS instructors wrote this book and it reflects what they teach on this course. If possible, practice two basic climbing knots: the figure 8 on a Bite and the Double Fisherman’s. Having a four foot piece of 6 mm cord available at climbing shops is great for practicing these knots. Participants are expected to be in average athletic condition.

Features of This Course

  • Glacier mountaineering ground school
  • Cramponing
  • Raising systems and fixed-line ascension
  • Crevasse rescue scenarios
  • Glacier camping concerns
  • Route finding techniques
Location
We will meet at the Glacier Park Resort parking lot at the toe of the Matanuska Glacier at 9:00 a.m. sharp on the morning of day one. The Glacier Park Resort is located at mile 103 on the Glenn Highway just before the Long Rifle Lodge and Caribou Creek, phone: 907-745-2534. The “toe” of the glacier provides an ideal classroom for our skills intensive workshop. Expect to be on ice for the duration of the workshop. All instruction will take place on the glacier.

Accommodations
Participants are on their own for the night. Camping at the Glacier Park is good option for $6 a night. The nearby Long Rifle Inn which over looks the Matanuska Glacier has rooms and dining available for $60-$70 per night (single & double occupancy). Call 907-745-5151 for reservations.

Equipment
Please contact the AMS office for an Equipment List.

   

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Alaska Mountaineering School
Colby Coombs & Caitlin Palmer, Directors
PO BOX 566, 3rd Street, Talkeetna, AK 99676 USA
phone: (907)733-1016
fax: (907)733-1362
email: info@climbalaska.org

AMS top image: Alaska Range viewed from Talkeetna
Mount Foraker (17,400'), Mount Hunter (14,570'), Denali (20,320')

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