Alaska Mountaineering School
" I was very impressed with the professionalism and attention to detail of the entire organization, from start to finish. "
— Gary Davis, 12 day Mountaineering Course
" If you want to climb in Alaska, use AMS. Their knowledge and experience in this area is unparalleled. "
— Brent Erickson, Advanced Mountaineering Course

Mountain Guide Course

The Mountain Guide Course is designed for individuals who wish to pursue a career in guiding or teaching at AMS or for another mountain guiding organization. This 12 day course provides an excellent opportunity to learn how to guide clients on Alaskan expeditions and how to teach a mountaineering progression to students. The course accomplishes this goal in a challenging and remote glaciated environment. Alaska's mountains are uncompromising and they present unique demands to the mountaineer. This course provides a good platform to launch a career in big mountain guiding. For those wanting to work at AMS, the Guide's course allows us to spend time with you in the field which is the most valuable resume one could provide a potential employer.

COURSE SPECIFICATIONS

Deposit: $250 (Balance Due: 60 days prior to the starting date.)

Group Limit: 6 students, 2 AMS Instructors

Tuition Includes: Instruction, glacier flight, food and fuel, group camping equipment, group climbing equipment, camping at AMS in Talkeetna.

You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging in Talkeetna, National Park Service Entrance Fee ($10), travelers' cancellation insurance, personal equipment and clothing.

FEATURES OF THIS COURSE

  • 1:3 instructor/student ratio; up to 6 student maximum
  • Review of alpine mountaineering skills and teaching techniques for each skill
  • Glacier travel and crevasse rescue school
  • Glacier and winter camping techniques for extreme environments
  • Peak ascents: belays and fixed line techniques, route finding, problem solving applied to suitable objectives
  • Teaching and guiding "soft skills," leadership and communication, managing expedition behavior for extended arctic high mountain expeditions
  • Avalanche curriculum: mechanics, transceiver use, snow morphology, identification and avoidance and teaching techniques
  • Rescue scenarios, summit days gone wrong, contingency plans

ENVIRONMENT AND COURSE LOCATION

Mountaineering courses fly into Denali National Park and Preserve, home to America's biggest and wildest mountains. A few days prior to the start date instructors will choose the specific mountain region and glacier for the course. They look for pristine wilderness and good quality climbing routes suitable for teaching our mountaineering progression. The exact location will depend on current snow and landing conditions. All of the potential locations with their variety of terrain, beauty, and isolation are challenging and demand respect. The routes are classic for a mountaineering expedition in Alaska. Expect to be on snow for the duration of the course and be prepared to encounter all types of weather and conditions. Alaska is full of surprises!

COURSE PROGRESSION

The Mountain Guide Course begins with a review of the basic curriculum for any Alaska mountaineering expedition: how to route find safely on glaciers with a group and how to rescue each other and self rescue in the event of a crevasse fall. Simultaneously, we will be practicing glacier camping while living in probed, wanded, and wall-protected areas. Course progression continues with the application of these skills to real scenarios and many of their unexpected situations. Course routes strike a balance between base camping and moving camp to experience a variety of terrain. Technical and non-technical peak ascents provide opportunities to review specific hazard management techniques such as fixing lines and running protection. Guiding protocols and techniques unique to Alaska are discussed and practiced. Instructors provide written evaluations at the end of the course.

FOOD

AMS provides all of the food for this course; however, we ask that you bring one pound of your favorite lunch food. This will be used to supplement what we have for you and to ensure that you have your preferred snack foods.

COURSE OBJECTIVES

Every course varies in route, group dynamics, and environmental conditions. Working with these variables, instructors strive for the following goals for each student.

SAFETY AND JUDGMENT

AMS teaches mountaineering skills that promote the health and safety of all expedition members. Each graduate is expected to:

  • Demonstrate knowledge of the hazards in a glaciated mountain environment
  • Participate in making sound decisions affecting the health and safety of the expedition
  • Display knowledge of personal limitations and the judgment to stay within them

LEADERSHIP AND TEAMWORK

Students are exposed to theory and practice of outdoor leadership, teamwork and expedition behavior. Each graduate is expected to:

  • Work effectively as a team member
  • Demonstrate sound expedition behavior: commitment to the group, a positive attitude, and cooperation to achieve group goals
  • Effectively communicate ideas and concerns with individuals and within a group
  • Show initiative in teaching and leading peers
  • Employ leadership styles appropriate to the situation; support others in the leadership role
  • Use decision-making and planning skills to participate fully in a safe, environmentally sound expedition
  • Show initiative in teaching and leading peers, teach one class in an area of their choice

ENVIRONMENTAL ETHICS

An important part of every course is to teach and practice Leave-No-Trace camping and traveling techniques. Each graduate is expected to:

  • Perform minimum impact living and traveling skills appropriate to a glaciated environment
  • Show respect for pristine wilderness and foster that respect in others

WINTER CAMPING AND GLACIER TRAVEL

AMS courses focus on teaching and practicing efficient and responsible backcountry skills.
Each graduate is expected to:

  • Live comfortably and efficiently in a glaciated mountain environment, camping, cooking, and dressing for a variety of conditions
  • Travel competently using safe and efficient navigation and route-finding techniques to reduce and avoid hazards
  • Demonstrate roped glacier travel techniques using skis or snowshoes and lead rope a team
  • Take responsibility for the organization, maintenance, and repair of group and personal equipment

MOUNTAINEERING SKILLS

The course goal is to advance all students' climbing ability and make them well-rounded mountaineers. Each graduate is expected to:

  • Demonstrate proficiency in tying knots and rope handling techniques
  • Demonstrate proficient crampon and ice axe techniques for snow, ice and/or mixed terrain
  • Demonstrate belay skills: fixed line, running belays, glacier travel, 5th class
  • Demonstrate setting up a rope system for glacier travel: 2, 3, and 4 person teams plus extensions
  • Demonstrate techniques to reduce and avoid hazards
  • Recognize and avoid avalanche terrain
  • Demonstrate the ability to remain composed and thoughtful in difficult and exposed terrain
  • Demonstrate leading a rope team on a glacier through crevassed areas/li>
  • Demonstrate rescue techniques: short roping, lowering an injured climber, litter building