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The North Ridge of Kahiltna Dome is an excellent training climb in preparation for Denali's West Buttress route. The course's goal is specifically focused on preparing participants for an expedition on Denali. It differs from our 12 day mountaineering course which is longer and includes a more thorough avalanche and technical climbing curriculum. In many ways the Kahiltna Dome course mirrors a Denali climb: it is outfitted the same, flies to the same landing strip, and shares the lower portion of the West Buttress route. The goal for this course is for everyone to be a responsible, organized, and competent climber and team member for a future West Buttress expedition, guided or unguided.
The Route: KAHILTNA DOME, NORTH RIDGE, 5,325' ELEVATION GAIN, 20 MILES, 10 DAYS, 12,525 feet / 3,818 meters
Deposit: $250 (Balance Due: 60 days prior to the starting date.)
Group Limit: 9 students, 3 AMS Instructors
Tuition Includes: Instruction, glacier flight, food and fuel, group camping equipment, group climbing equipment, camping at AMS in Talkeetna.
You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging in Talkeetna, National Park Service Entrance Fee ($10), travelers' cancellation insurance, personal equipment and clothing.
In 1903 Robert Dunn, a member of Dr. Cook's first Alaskan expedition, named the mountain we call Kahiltna Dome, "Mt. Hunter." When making the map, the surveyor mistakenly placed "Mt. Hunter" on a different mountain 10 miles south and the name stuck leaving the dome at the head of the Kahiltna un-named. Dr. Bradford Washburn first climbed the mountain in 1951 while making the first ascent of Denali's West Buttress route. He reported the name, "Kahiltna Dome" in 1961. "The views from Kahiltna Dome are the best one could have of Denali's West Buttress route," says Washburn.
This expedition starts at Denali's West Buttress base camp, 7200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. The expedition follows the West Buttress route until approximately 10,000 feet and at this point veers west for the summit of the Kahiltna Dome. Even though this snow ridge is relatively straightforward, there are many route finding objectives to take into consideration. Slopes need constant avalanche hazard evaluation, crevasses break into the ridge, and moderately steep slopes must be navigated to get onto the ridge. We will ferry loads throughout the trip in true expedition style, all the while becoming better mountaineers.
Kahiltna Dome is located in the middle of the southern Alaskan main land 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle at 63° North Latitude. This is 35° further north than Everest; this is the same latitude as northern Hudson Bay and central Scandinavia. Kahiltna Dome's northern location results in a climate that presents some of the more severe weather of any region on earth. That said, typically during the summer we wouldn't experience temperatures below 10 F up to 12,000 feet. The weather in the Alaska Range will dictate our every move, and it is fickle and un-predictable. It will force us to learn to be flexible, patient, and sometimes spontaneous. Weather is part of the experience that we cannot change; we can only adapt to and make the best of it.
AMS provides all of the food and drinks for this expedition. To ensure satisfaction we suggest that you bring one pound of your favorite lunch food.
This expedition starts at Denali's West Buttress base camp, 7200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. The expedition follows the West Buttress route until approximately 10,000 feet and, at this point, veers west for the summit of the Kahiltna Dome.
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progression. Also, the abilities, condition, and desires of the expedition members play an important role in realizing any itinerary. For these reasons a very vague itinerary is included. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis.
Day 1 Meet at AMS headquarters at 9 am for orientation, gear check, NPS registration, fixed lines. Fly to base camp (7,200 feet) between 3:00 and 4:30 pm. Distance from Talkeetna: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850 feet. Classes: fixed lines (waist and chest harness, ascender, prussic knot, figure 8 knot series), probing, wanding, setting up tents, kitchens, stove use, food id, basic cooking/nutrition, hygiene/sanitation, sleeping warm, bomb proofing camp.
Day 2 Base camp: start the mountaineering progression, day tour to crevasse for lowering, raising, and fixed line practice. Classes: rope id and care, snow and ice protection, building anchors, belaying, roping up for glacier travel, flat-glacier self-arrest, transferring a load, raising and lowering systems, crevasse fall scenarios, walking on snow shoes, route finding techniques.
Day 3 Pack up camp and move to 7,800 feet, Camp 2, at the base if Ski Hill. Distance: 5 miles, elevation gain 600 feet. Classes: breaking camp, caches, sled rigging, navigation techniques, choosing a safe camp, building a latrine, expedition behavior (EB).
Day 4 Move to 9,500 feet. Camp 3. Distance: 2 miles, elevation gain: 1700 feet. Classes: quarry and wall building, avalanche mechanics, cold injuries.
Day 5 Move to 10,000 feet. Camp 4. Distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 500 feet. Short move to allow time for classes. Classes: use Kahiltna Pass headwall for snow climbing, crampon use, alpine style self-arrest, running protection, fixed lines.
Day 6 Summit day. In the event of bad weather classes on transceiver searches, building snow shelters: igloo, digloo, snow cave.
Day 7 Designate student leaders, move back to Camp 2. This day could also be a back-up summit day. Classes: altitude-related injuries, expedition planning.
Day 8 Designate student leaders, move back to base camp. Classes: land management issues, climbing ethics, and style
Day 9 Extra climbing/weather day: climb Radio Tower Peak or Mt. Frances or if bad weather, build an igloo.
Day 10 Fly back to Talkeetna and return to AMS, return rental equipment, clean and organize group gear, evaluations, shower. Most expeditions enjoy going out for dinner in Talkeetna.