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Alaska Mountaineering School Instructors and Guides ZOOM Many factors weigh into building an excellent climbing school and guiding company: the outfitting facilities, quality food rations and equipment, and an extraordinary mountain range. However, the single greatest determiner of AMS' success is our dedicated and professional staff. The best schools have the best teachers and their graduates will tell you. AMS' staff have years of prior experience and dedication to their profession; they love teaching and they love the wilderness. Their measuring stick is the stacks of good evaluations of them written by their students and clients. Instructors have successfully completed the Guide's Course and assisted on a mountaineering course before being considered an AMS instructor. Some instructors have bypassed the Guide's Course and become assistant instructors with an established history of excellence and lead-instructing experience at other respected organizations such as Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, Exum, NOLS, Colorado Mountain School, and the American Mountain Guides Association. Mike Alkaitis Mike Alkaitis makes the annual summer pilgrimage ZOOM to the Alaska Range from Boulder, Colorado, where he is executive director of the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association). Mike and Colby are long time climbing partners who went to high school and college together. They have also guided on Denali together. Vince Anderson Vince comes up from Ouray, Colorado to guide on Denali and in the Alaska Range with AMS. He has years of guiding experience and runs his own guiding company called Skyward Mountaineering. His articles on ice climbing techniques appear frequently in climbing magazines. He also guides frequently in the European Alps. Allie Barker Allie Barker began rock climbing in 1995 at Smith Rock, and started ZOOM ice climbing and Mountaineering in 1998. She began teaching/guiding in 2000. She loves Alaska's intense wild nature. "I feel humbled and put in my place when traveling in the mountains. I enjoy learning from the mountains and about myself throughout these journeys." Her most memorable climb in Alaska was an adventure of paddling, bushwhacking with skis, skiing, and climbing to the top of Mt. Solstice in the Chugach Mountains on the summer Solstice. "I remember it being midnight and slowly making our way to the summit. The sky was a myriad of bright colors. The view overlooked the glassy waters of the Prince William Sound and snow covered peaks in the Chugach." Amy Beaudoin Amy Beaudoin has been climbing since 1991, and teaching/guiding since 2000. ZOOM She is a lifelong Alaskan. Her most memorable climb in AK was of Pyramid Peak, Alaska Range with a snow board descent. Amy has been with AMS almost since its beginning, she is one of the office managers. Tyson Bradley Tyson, 34, has been guiding with us on the West Buttress and Karstens Ridge ZOOM of Denali since 1994. After the Denali season Tyson guides for Timberline Mountain Guides at Mt. Hood and in the winter guides for Exum Mt. Adventures in Utah. If he is not guiding you are likely to find him free heel skiing extreme routes on Denali or any of the worlds steep, snowy mountains. His many accomplishments include skiing the Wickersham Wall of Denali, the Sultana Ridge of Mt. Foraker and Carpe Ridge on Mt. Fairweather. Tyson has traveled to China on various mountaineering trips. He is a dedicated full-time mountaineer, all of his years in the mountains giving one incredible resource for learning about climbing Alaska's mountains. Tyson is married to Julie, an awesome mountain guide and mother of their newborn, Roman. Mike Clelland Mike Clelland has been climbing since 1988, and teaching/guiding since 1996. ZOOM When he isn't instructing he's illustrating and writing books. He co-wrote and illustrated the Allen and Mike's Really Cool back country Ski Book, and The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue. His art has been featured in Climbing and Rock and Ice magazines and many many other published articles and books. Melis Coady Melis Coady has been climbing since 1992 and teaching/guiding since 1995. ZOOM Her Expeditions in the Alaska Range include, Denali's West Buttress, Kahiltna Dome, East Kahiltna Peak, numerous rock and ice routes in the Pika Glacier area, and peak ascents in the Matanuska/Powell Glaciers, and in the Chugach Range. She led a Ski Expedition in Russia in April 2002. Melis has been a volunteer on a high altitude NPS mountaineering patrol on Denali. She has also chaired the Outdoor Recreation Committee at Colorado College, and co-ordinate various aspects of the committee's activities. Greg Collins Greg Collins has been climbing since 1974, and teaching/guiding since 1982. ZOOM Expeditions in Alaska include Denali- West Rib, a new route on Denali's Washburn Face, Foraker, Hunter, Moose's Tooth and the east face of Barille. He has made first ascents in the Revelation Mountains and many more peaks, ski traverses, and mountaineering courses in the Alaska Range. Expeditions in Asia include: Lukpila Brakk, Latok I, K2-Abruzzi Spur, Gasherbrum I, in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Cholatse, in the Khumbu Nepal. Greg is the author of Lander Rock, a rock climbing guide to Sinks Canyon, Wyoming, where Greg has put up the majority of 5.12 and 5.13 routes. Greg has worked for NOLS since he was 19 and is one of Jackson Hole Mountain Guide's senior guides. Colby Coombs Colby Coombs' love for climbing and wilderness places led him to ZOOM instruct mountaineering courses for NOLS Alaska at age nineteen, a year after he first climbed Denali. He guided his first McKinley climb in 1993 for Alaska-Denali Guiding. He and his wife Caitlin Palmer started AMS with the help of many friends in 1994. Coombs is a board member of The Ritt Kellogg Fund at Colorado College and a past board member of the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association). He is author of Denali: A Climber's Guide and co-author with Mike Wood, Alaska: A Climber's Guide, published by the Mountaineers Press. He and Caitlin live in Talkeetna with their Patterdale Terrier, Luke. Andy Elsberg Andy Elsberg has been climbing since 1986, and teaching/guiding since1990. He is what we call "a lifer." ZOOM He lives in the village of Nenana, Alaska, and runs dogs with his Canadian wife Shannon, winner of the 2003 Alaska Rookie Musher of the year award. Andy has successfully guided many routes on Denali including the West Buttress, the Muldrow, and the Traverse. He has also pioneered new routes with student on mountaineering courses in the Alaska Range. Hugh Gaasch Hugh Gaasch has been climbing since 1985 , and teaching/guiding since 2001. ZOOM He has been a part of AMS for years, having been a student, guide-trainee, apprentice, and instructor. A free-heel fanatic and semi-reformed back country ski bum, he loves sharing his passion for the wilderness, and integrating his engineering background into the curriculum. “My most memorable moment in Alaska?…Every last minute, even the miserable ones…”. He makes the journey north every year from Concord, Massachusetts. Joel Giesendorpher Coming Soon! ZOOM Rob Gowler Rob Gowler is one of AMS' core lead guides who gets our toughest assignments. ZOOM  He makes the pilgrimage up here every spring. A resident of Jackson, Wyoming in the fall and surf beaches of Baja, Mexico in the winter, Rob is trying hard to fulfill the American Dream. He has been a full-time climber and back country skier since 1989, and a professional Mountain Guide since 1995. Rob has led successful expeditions, both skiing and climbing, to: Alaska, Patagonia, (he climbed Cerro Fitzroy in 2001), Ecuador, Peru among others. Rob is also lead guide for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and does snow safety/avalanche forecasting/high angle rescue for the World Free Skiing Championships in Valdez, Alaska. Rob has a B. A. in “Wilderness Leadership with an emphasis on Mountaineering”. "I love AMS and feel extremely privileged to work for the best." Dr. Peter Hackett Dr. Peter Hackett is AMS' Medical Director and co-author ZOOM of our Back country Medical Protocols. He is a world authority on high-altitude medicine and physiology and has contributed much of his life to understanding altitude-related illnesses. In 1982, he established the medical camp at 14,000 feet on Denali to study and assist climbers suffering from cold and altitude-related illnesses. Mike Hamill Mike has been a year round professional mountain guide for 7 years ZOOM and has been climbing since high school. He cut his teeth on the steep rock and ice of New England and New York before moving west. When not working in Alaska for AMS, Mike guides extensively in South America, the lower 48, the Himalayas, and Europe where he has been a member or leader of over 20 expeditions.  Originally from New Hampshire, he obtained a B. S. in Biology and Environmental Studies from St. Lawrence University where he was a Division I ski racer. Mike is a Wilderness First Responder and is Avalanche Three certified. When not guiding Mike can often be found back-country skiing, climbing, fly fishing or cycling in some exotic locale. Currently, he resides in Seattle and uses the North Cascades as his playground. Kathryn Hess Kathryn Hess has been since 1987, and teaching/guiding since 1989. ZOOM She is co-owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. She loves Alaska's "big glaciated terrain and the energy I get from 24 hours of daylight!" Her most memorable Alaskan climb was Mt. Sanford, her first big mountain and first trip with peers. "We had incredible weather, which is a very lucky thing in Alaska - sun for four days to the top and two feet of powder for the ski down. It was an incredible learning experience!" Tim Hewette Tim has been climbing since 1999, and teaching/guiding since 2002. ZOOM His first climbing trip was to Potrero Chico in Mexico. Tim came to Alaska on a vacation and never went back. His first expedition in Alaska was a winter ascent of Mt. Marcus Baker, which involved battling harsh weather in a snow cave for a week. That experience enlightened him of the potential adventures to be had in Alaska. Tim received a degree in outdoor studies from Alaska Pacific University and completed his internship at AMS in 2004, which included guiding the oldest person ever to have climbed Denali. Each year he makes the journey to South America where he guides on Aconcagua. When not guiding, he can be found climbing and exploring the local mountain ranges, or riding his snow board on the peaks behind his house. Bob Hornbein A resident of Washington state for most of his life, Bob,39, has been involved in climbing and skiing with his father since the age of four, developing a deep appreciation and love for the mountains. Bob has climbed extensively throughout the western United States, as well as Alaska, Canada, Europe and China. He has been an assistant guide for six traverse climbs with Alaska Denali Guiding, Inc. His depth of worldwide experience and dedication to safety are a great asset to any climb. Evan Howe Evan has climbed throughout North America for 18 years, and has been on expeditions to Denali, Mt. Hunter, Mt. Foraker, Mt. Saint Elias, the Karakoram, and West Africa. He has pioneered first ascents in the Teton's and Pakistan and has ascended El Cap 6 times, 3 times in-a-day. Evan has taught avalanche courses for 4 years, and started a web-page for snow and avalanche information. Sam Johnson Samuel Johnson, a lifelong Alaska resident, has been climbing since ZOOM 1996, and began mountain guiding/instructing with AMS in 2004. He has climbed in Alaska, the United States, Canadian Rockies, New Zealand, Australia, Europe, and Asia, completing the first ascent of Severance Ridge on Trango II in Pakistan's Karakoram in 2005. Sam's climbing in Alaska includes multiple Denali expeditions, many climbs in the Pika Glacier area, new mixed lines on Thunder Mountain and Mt. Providence, and the second ascent of Mt. Hunter's Diamond Arete with fellow AMS guide, Freddie Wilkinson. Sam loves working for AMS because they know how to have a good time, have genuine passion for the mountains, and are the best guides and instructors in Alaska. Kirsten Kremer Kirsten Kremer has been climbing for 13 years, and teaching/guiding ZOOM for 11 years. Her passion for wilderness sports includes running Alaska's remote rivers and back country skiing and guiding out of Valdez. Last seen on a big wall climb in Yosemite, her enthusiasm and energy for life and adventure is pretty contagious. Brian McCullough Brian McCullough is a long time Alaskan adventurer who has ZOOM traveled the state extensively on foot, on skis, and in a kayak. Brian is renowned for his dynamic teaching style and keeping students on the move. Brian, the Bear, has made numerous first ascents in Alaska and has been on the cover of Climbing magazine twice! He lives in Talkeetna. Sue Miller Sue Miller has been climbing since 1980. She has been teaching and ZOOM guiding since 1983. She guided here first Denali expedition via the Muldrow in 1987. Sue loves Alaska's "big, huge wild lands." Her most memorable Alaskan climb was the West Summit of Moose's Tooth with Georgie Stanley and Greg Collins. "Spectacular views, awesome climb, and the best partners!" Eric Mize Eric Mize has been climbing since 1988, and teaching/guiding ZOOM since 1994. He is a lifelong Alaskan who loves the freedom and wilderness environment that only this place can offer. He works at AMS because he "supports the ideas and mission of the school." His most memorable climb was an ice route in Portage Valley - Dreams of Brown Moose. Brian Okonek Brian Okonek co-founded ADG, Inc. in 1983 and directed the company ZOOM  until this year overseeing sixty expeditions to Denali. During the past thirty-two years he climbed throughout the world and Alaska. His favorite stomping grounds are near his home in Talkeetna where he has traveled many miles by foot, ski, and dog sled exploring Alaska's backyard. Diane Calamar Okonek Diane was co-founder and director of Alaska Denali Guiding, Inc. in 1983 and she worked in this capacity until April 2001. Her duties ranged from all aspects of business management to guiding Denali expeditions and remote back country treks. Diane's love of Alaska's mountains and lowlands and her depth of knowledge of the natural history is enthusiastically shared with every team member. In the summer of 2001 Diane is looking forward to working full time as a guide. Caitlin Palmer Caitlin Palmer has been a director and instructor for AMS since ZOOM its beginning. Caitlin has taught for a number of different wilderness programs, universities, and guiding companies. The first time she summitted Denali was on the 1994 Women's Breast Cancer Expedition. Caitlin's second love are pottery and gardening. She lives in Talkeetna with her husband, Colby Coombs.   Zach Shlosar I have been climbing since 1993 and started guiding on Denali when I was 18 years old. ZOOM I have enjoyed working for AMS since 2001 and look forward to many more years of quality instructing. My personal climbs include trips to East Germany, the Swiss and French Alps, Patagonia's Cerro Solo, and first ascents in Alaska's Tordrillos, Chugach, Talkeetna's, and Denali's Northwest Buttress. Alaska will always be home and AMS will always be family. Blaine Smith Blaine, 38, has been guiding for Alaska-Denali Guiding since 1989 ZOOM and AMS since 1996. He was born and raised in Alaska and enjoys sharing this beautiful country with others. His depth of climbing and guiding experience combined with his easy going personality gives Blaine the unique qualities it takes to be a life long mountain guide. He has climbed Denali 12 times, climbed hundreds of peaks in other mountains in Alaska and Canada, including Mt. Blackburn , Marcus Baker, Mt. Logan, King Peak and Mt. Sanford. His travels have taken him climbing in the Northwest, Yosemite, Ecuador , Mexico and Argentina. While not guiding, Blaine is busy as a carpenter, a poet, and a teacher for Alaska Mountain Safety Center. Matt Smith Matt Smith lives in McCarthy, Alaska and has been climbing since ZOOM 1984 and instructing since 1995. He likes Alaska for the slower pace, closeness with nature and raw beauty it offers. When not climbing or working for AMS, Matt works for Kennicott-McCarthy Wilderness Guides and Valdez Heli Ski Guides. Kirby Spangler Kirby has a deep appreciation for the outdoors which began at ZOOM  an early age in the north woods of Wisconsin. When Kirby was 10 years old he and his father began taking trips "out west" to the mountains. These trips came to an apex in 1989, when they rode their bicycles from Missoula, Montana to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. That journey began what has become a life devoted to exploration and adventure. Following the trip, Kirby entered the University of Oregon. He earned a degree in geography, but the most important lessons were learned during the weekends, on the summits and crags of the Oregon Cascades. After graduating, Kirby began his career as a mountain guide on these very peaks. Kirby has since moved to Alaska and has been guiding on the mountains and rivers here since 1999. Through his work, Kirby enjoys sharing with others the landscape that originally inspired him to pursue a career in guiding. Georgie Stanley Georgie Stanley,32, has been leading people in the mountains since ZOOM 1989 when she started teaching for NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School). She led mountaineering, rock climbing and winter courses in the Rockies, the Cascades, the Chugach and Alaska Ranges of Alaska, and the Himalayas, since 1991. In 1996 Georgie started guiding in the Teton's for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. In Alaska Georgie has climbed two routes on Denali - the remote Mt Hayes and the classic West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth, and has completed a traverse of the Chugach Mountains, among others. In 1994 Georgie led a women’s team to the East ridge of Baruntse in Eastern Nepal, where snow conditions thwarted their attempt. In 1995, she attempted Gashabrum 1 in Pakistan with a strong team, but weather conditions kept them from reaching the summit. Last spring Georgie finally reached the summit of a Himalayan peak when she and two others reached the summit of Cho Oyu (8201m) and became the first American Women's team to summit an 8000 meter peak without supplemental oxygen or sherpa's. Karl Swanson Karl Swanson was born in Anchorage and has spent the better ZOOM part of his life climbing, skiing, hiking and rafting in Alaska. His first expedition was to Nepal 23 years ago and he started guiding in 1986 as an Outward Bound instructor in Zambia. His resume is vast and varied and includes leading nine Denali expeditions and being a ski instructor for the disabled. He is AMS' certified accountant who is all too willing to drop his calculator and take an adventurous group into the way back of the way back Alaska Bush. Tom Torkelson Tom has devoted the past decade of his life to his passion for the mountains; guiding, ski-mountaineering, alpine climbing, and adventure photography and videography. He has organized and led ZOOM more than 50 high-altitude expeditions in South America, Alaska, and the Himalayas. His area of expertise is the Andes, where he has established new climbing routes in Peru and Bolivia, and has ascended Aconcagua 18 times. His professional videography career includes successful expeditions to the summits of Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. Paul Turecki Paul Turecki has been devoted to climbing for going past 20 ZOOM years now. His first ascents span from Zion to Yosemite to the Deltas in Alaska, to Thailand. When not climbing, he paddles and rows for Class V in Girdwood and ski guides for Valdez Heli Ski Guides. He is also a surveyor. He lives in bush Alaska. Jared Vilhauer Jared Vilhauer has been climbing since 1996 and instructing/guiding ZOOM since 2000. He loves Alaska's massive landscape: the mountains, glaciers, and forests. He works at AMS because of all the great people and the fun atmosphere. He is also a journey man electrician who has pulled wire since he was eleven years old. Jared is a graduate of AMS's 12 ­ day mountaineering and Mt. Guide's Courses. Jim Williams Jim Williams has been climbing and guiding for so long that it is ZOOM measured in decades. He enjoys working at AMS because of "the good folks, good food, and because Colby and Caitlin run one of the best Denali programs around." He is the owner of Professional Mountain Guides in Jackson Wyoming and serves on the Board of the AMGA. Mike Wood Mike Wood is one of the founding fathers of AMS. His background ZOOM includes 200 weeks in the field with NOLS, head guide for Alaska-Denali Guiding. Mike brings years of climbing and teaching in Alaska to AMS and is instrumental in running the school. When not teaching, he is either climbing or writing climbing guidebooks on Alaska. He lives in Talkeetna. Doug Workman Doug Workman, a Colorado College graduate, is a mountain guide based in Jackson, Wyoming ZOOM He first climbed in Alaska in 1998 when his brother, Jed Workman, and him climbed the first ascent of the East Face of Mount Nevermore in the Kitchatna Spires. He first guided Denali in 2002. Doug also works for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, International Mountain Climbing School, NOLS, and Valdez Heli-Ski Guides. He has climbed throughout the United States as well as Pakistan and China. Jed Workman Jed Workman has been climbing since 1989 and instructing ZOOM and guiding since 2000. What he loves the most about Alaska is that "we are small." His most memorable climb in Alaska was Mt. Nevermore, Kichatna Spires. Jed works at AMS because he loves to teach and to take the airplane rides. Luke the Dog Luke, the AMS Dog, is the only Patterdale terrier in all of Alaska. ZOOM Ok, if not the only, then we're certain, one of the very few. He builds up his character daily by eluding eagles and other predatory birds. Although not actually a guide or instructor with AMS, Luke does sometimes sleep on the office couch. Instructor Links For more information on instructors and guides log on to the other organizations they work for and search for their names: Alaska Coalition Rachael James Alaska Mountain Safety Center Nancy Pfeiffer, Blaine Smith Alaska Pacific University Outdoor Program (APU) Jesse Billmeyer, Tim Hewitt, Christian March, David McGivern American Mountain Guide's Association (AMGA) Mike Alkaitis, Vince Anderson, Rob Hess, Steve Howse Exum Mountain Guides Bean Bowers, Tyson Bradley, Jim Williams International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) Ben Gilmore, Kevin Mahoney, Freddie Wilkerson International Mountain Guides (IMG) Michael Hamill Jackson Hole Mountain Guides (JHMG) Katherine and Rob Hess, Georgie Stanley, Greg Collins, Robert Gowler, Evan Howe, Sue Miller, Paul Turecki, Doug Workman, Jed Workman National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) Allie Barker, Jamie Blackman, Mike Clelland, Melis Coady, Greg Collins, Colby Coombs, Andy Elsberg, Paul Henderson, Evan Howe, Rachael James, Aubrey Knapp, Larry Lynne, Keri Meagher, Sue Miller, Louis Sass, Georgie Stanley, Mike Wood, Doug Workman, Jed Workman Professional Mountain Guides Jim Williams Safety Education for Remote Work Environments Deb Anjango Skyward Mountaineering Vince Anderson Timberline Mountain Guides Tom Egan, Steve Grillo, Kirby Spangler Valdez Heli Ski Guides Kirsten Kremer, Paul Turecki, Doug Workman Wilderness Society Eleanor Huffines Wilderness Medical Associates Deb Anjango Wilderness Wilderness Institute Melis Coady

Top of Page Travel & Lodging General Info Email Us Alaska Mountaineering School Colby Coombs & Caitlin Palmer, Directors PO BOX 566, 3rd Street, Talkeetna, AK 99676 USA phone: (907)733-1016 fax: (907)733-1362 email: info@climbalaska.org AMS top image: Alaska Range viewed from Talkeetna Mount Foraker (17,400'), Mount Hunter (14,570'), Denali (20,320')