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Detailed Description PDF »Equipment List PDF »
Mount Foraker is Denali National Park's second highest mountain and sixth highest in North America. Located 15 miles from Denali, it rises above the Kahiltna Glacier like a towering cathedral. Foraker, by any route, is a formidable mountaineering challenge of the highest caliber. AMS chooses to climb the Southeast Ridge via the 1974 variation in order to minimize icefall hazard and follow a direct route to the summit.
Route: Southeast Ridge, Alaska Grade III, 10400', 5 miles, 17 days
Deposit: $1000 (Balance Due: 90 days prior to the starting date.)
Group Limit: 4 climbers, 2 AMS lead guides, maintaining a 2:1 ratio
Cost Includes: AMS guides, round trip glacier flight, field food and fuel, group camping, traveling, and climbing equipment, AMS campground in Talkeetna, base camp fee.
You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging, NPS Fees (~ $210) to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the expedition, 2-4 lbs of favorite lunch food (optional), travelers cancellation insurance (recommended), personal equipment and clothing, AMS equipment rentals, guide gratuities (discretionary).
Mt. Foraker is also known as by the native Tanaina name of Sultana, which means "woman," or "wife" (of Denali). In July of 1963, a group of climbers led by H Adams Carter, made the first ascent of the Southeast Ridge. This was the 2nd ascent of Mt. Foraker, 29 years after the first ascent via the Northeast Ridge. AMS will be climbing the more direct and easier to protect 1974 variation.
There are unique qualities inherent in Alaska's arctic environment that make climbing conditions such as temperature, wind, and snow pack unlike any other mountain range in the world. Alaska Grade III is given to the Southeast Ridge because of its relatively high altitude, exposure to weather, cornicing, crevasses and sustained climbing. Foraker is a difficult mountain to climb and demands all the strength, commitment, and mountaineering savvy one could expect from such a classic Alaskan big mountain.
Foraker's Southeast Ridge is for experienced mountaineers only. Like any challenging climb in the Alaska Range, Foraker requires extensive prior climbing experience and training beforehand. Applicants have to be in excellent physical condition and have climbed mountaineering routes that require roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and extensive use of an ice axe and crampons. Prior winter camping and travel experience is essential; Foraker is not the place to be introduced to these skills. Tying knots, rope handling, and belaying have to be second nature. The ability to immediately arrest a fall on a steep snow slope is paramount to your safety and the safety of your rope team. All Foraker applicants must have a climbing resume which includes climbs of Denali or close equivalent.
It is said that the greatest challenge of an Alaska mountaineering expedition is not the climbing, but the storms. Unlike most of the world's highest mountains, Foraker is 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle at 63° North Latitude. It is sub artic and 35° north of Everest, the same latitude as northern Hudson Bay and central Scandinavia. The average climate around Foraker's summit is probably more severe than any spot on earth. The weather on Foraker will dictate every move. It will force us to be flexible and patient and spontaneous. It is one thing we cannot change.
Be aware, Alaska has unpredictable weather which can prevent flying into or out of the mountains on schedule. Bush planes can only fly if the weather is suitable. In the event that expeditions are unable to fly to the glacier at the scheduled time they will base out of the AMS Talkeetna Facilities which consists of the office and staging area, Schoolhouse, and Matt Porter Rock Gym. This allows expedition members to view slideshows and additional educational media, practice fixed line ascension and other climbing techniques that allow us to hit the ground running. Usually un-flyable weather persists only for a day or two and then expeditions are able to fly into the Alaska Range. Sometimes expeditions can be weathered in the Alaska Range beyond their end date. We will do our best to ensure that your expedition ends on schedule and most do. However, we recommend allowing 2 days on the return end of your travel plans (or purchasing flexible airline tickets) in the event that weather inhibits you from flying off the glacier on time.
The most common question asked by climbers is "which is the best month to climb?" There is no right answer as every year is different than the previous year as far as weather and conditions. It is generally agreed that the practical climbing season on Foraker begins in late April and lasts through early June. It is possible to go earlier, but cold conditions persist and frostbite hard to avoid. Later in the season, the steep lower slopes of the mountain become less stable due to warm conditions. We choose a sweet spot in the beginning of May that hopefully affords the best conditions on the mountain.
AMS' expedition climbing strategy is concerned with giving everyone the best chance to acclimate to a lower oxygen environment. Foraker does not pose as big a threat as Denali for altitude-related problems due to its lower elevation at 17,400 feet, but altitude-related illnesses are still a major concern. Different strategies to facilitate acclimatization, like climb high and sleep low, will be used. AMS expeditions carry a pulse oximeter to measure blood oxygen saturation levels and prescription drugs to treat life-threatening conditions. Advanced signs or symptoms of pulmonary and/or cerebral edema are serious, life threatening conditions that require descent. Each year AMS is briefed by our medical director, Dr. Peter Hackett, who pioneered high altitude medical research on Denali, on any advancements in the research, prevention, and treatment of altitude- related illnesses. Our training supervisor, Lance Taysom, a life- flight nurse and Park Service mountaineering VIP certifies AMS instructors in wilderness emergency medicine. Together they wrote our medical protocols and standing orders which allow AMS instructors to evaluate and treat within the scope of their Wilderness First Responder training. Instructors teach altitude and discuss the use of Diamox and touch base with everyone individually, but your self- monitoring is paramount to early detection.
Successful expeditions are properly equipped, have the necessary skills, but most importantly they learn to become a strong team. We need to show signs of strength from the first day: tight camps, efficient travel techniques, and a positive attitude. Your instructors expect you to be organized, participate 100%, and support the effort of being a strong and safe expedition. Of primary importance is taking responsibility for monitoring yourself: what your comfort level is, how you sleep, how you recover each day. Not fully participating, or failing to meet the day-to-day demands may necessitate your departure from the expedition. We expect you to maintain good expedition behavior: supportive, solution-oriented, and willing to work hard and you will be rewarded with an experience of a lifetime.
AMS guides are unique professionals who have a gift for teaching as well as guiding others in a remote and hazardous environment. They are talented climbers with extensive backcountry experience to draw upon. Guides on Foraker are AMS' most experienced professionals. They have a wealth of experience on the mountain as well as leading mountaineering courses on the surrounding peaks. All instructors are familiar with altitude-related problems, extreme weather, and know how to set the pace for a successful expedition. All our staff have mountain rescue, avalanche safety and wilderness medical training. Their knowledge of the natural and climbing history of the area and personal stories of climbing in Alaska add immensely to the climb.
All applicants must adopt a goal of being in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition. Please don't show up sick, injured, or out-of-shape. On any mountaineering expedition there are factors that are completely out of the control of anyone, namely weather and individual acclimatization rates. By joining a professionally run expedition, you leave expedition logistics, food, equipment and leadership to us. You are responsible for and have control over your physical fitness and climbing ability. It is imperative that everyone joining our expeditions be physically fit when the expedition begins. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for summitting. The more climbing experience you have prior to the climb, the more comfortable you will be on Foraker.
The amount of time needed for training depends on the level of fitness at the start. Climbers make it a priority of being in good shape. Those that are able to get out and just climb. Those with less time exercise to stay in shape lift weights, run, bike, swim, practice martial arts, and red-line stair master. Athletes need only to adjust their training habits to include mountaineering-specific routines. Others may have to plan a year or more of serious training in advance to ensure success.
Focus on developing stamina over brute strength. Upper body strength is necessary for lifting your pack, shoveling snow, and building camp, but most strength should be aerobic for the long hard days breaking trail and moving camp. Train on irregular terrain in poor conditions. Maintain a pulse rate 80% of maximum for a half hour during the workout. Vary your routine to prevent overuse injuries and push yourself without injuring yourself. Think about how much stronger you will be in a blizzard with that 60-70 pound pack. Exposing yourself beforehand to similar activities will condition your body. Scramble up peaks, climb snow and ice, embark on a rigorous multi-day winter backpacking trip, ski uphill as well as down hill, go snow shoeing. Pushing yourself in uncomfortable environments while staying focused and alert is training. You cannot successfully prepare for this expedition in your office or solely by training indoors. The more familiar the stress of Foraker is for you, the better you can pace, acclimate, and be a team player.
Foraker is not the mountain to "just get by" with mediocre equipment. Your gear will be put to the ultimate test. A thought out layering system will be more comfortable, efficient, lightweight, and hold up. Read carefully the Equipment List written for this expedition; it answers most questions and gives recommendations for particular items. AMS has ample supply of premium quality rental equipment and gear for sale in its Mountain Shop. Your instructors will insure you are properly outfitted before you go. Please wait until the morning of the first day to check equipment, as we are busy preparing for the expedition a full three days before the climb official start date.
AMS provides hearty, nutritious and balanced meals on its expeditions. Using a trusted spreadsheet rations program we successfully balance calories, carbohydrates, fats, proteins, and weight to create a variety of tasty and creative meals that promote strength and health. We start the expedition with strong appetites and we eat big pasta meals, burritos, and pancakes. As we gain altitude, lighter and more easily digested foods are used. Examples include: hash browns, noodles, rice, mashed potatoes, Ramen, cous-cous, soup, tortellini, dried vegetables. We do not use freeze-dried meals-in-a-bag. Our rations come from organic wholesalers from Washington State and a modern supermarket in Anchorage. Our rations can easily accommodate vegetarians. We will provide all of the food for this expedition. To ensure satisfaction, we suggest that you bring your preferred hot or cold drinks for 17 days: tea, cocoa, instant coffee, and cold drink mixes like Gatorade. We also ask that you bring 2-4 pounds of your favorite lunch food to be saved for summit day. Please contact us if you have any dietary restrictions or questions about our food and we will accommodate.
On the starting day of the expedition, members, and guides will meet at 8:00 a.m. at AMS. This is a busy day, so please be on time and take care of all personal business before hand. Guides will do a check of each expedition members gear and equipment to make sure that it is adequate. Any rentals which are issued will be done at this time as we prefer not to do this prior to the start date as we are busy briefing and packing group gear and food. After guides go through your equipment and issue any rental items you will need they will provide an expedition orientation. At 12 pm, lunch at AMS is provided.
After lunch, we will cover fixed line ascension, visit the NPS Ranger station in Talkeetna, and then we pack, dress, and fly onto the glacier in a ski-equipped fixed wing Cessna 185 or a DeHaviland Beaver. The 30-45 minute flight into Denali National Park is the quickest way to access the snowy, glaciated peaks of the Alaska Range, and is a spectacular and memorable highlight to the trip. Once you arrive at the glacier the rest of the evening will consist of campsite selection, tent spacing, group kitchen set up, and of course dinner!
AMS is the oldest and only outdoor school and guiding company locally owned and located in downtown Talkeetna. Our office, staging area, and camping facilities are located at the end of 3rd street, adjacent to the local airstrip. We have a great location and facilities to properly outfit expeditions. A large staging area allows us to check gear and an indoor climbing gym allows us to practice fixed line ascension. We have an acre of lawn to rope up for glacier travel and practice crevasse fall scenarios. In the event of un-flyable weather, our facility provides a comfortable area to teach classes, look at slides of the route, and try and be productive during a "Talkeetna hang."
AMS is a professionally run operation committed to high standards at all levels. We urge you to carefully research and look into climbing Foraker. Search for us on the Internet. Talk to climbing rangers in the Talkeetna Ranger Station (907-733-2231). Call your local climbing store and ask if they have heard of us. We are a small group of 50 professional educators and mountain guides who have reached senior status at: NOLS, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, Exum, Colorado Mountain School, and IMCS. Click here for testimonials from past AMS climbers »
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines a possible schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24hr. clock depending on conditions. With lucky weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. On the other hand, delays at the start with un-flyable weather and storms at high camp may result in running out of time. It is possible at high camp for us to extend the length of the expedition and allow those who wish to tough it out and have a flexible schedule more time. There is a cost associated with this to compensate the guides'.
Day 1 8:00 am meet at AMS for introduction, orientation, gear check, NPS registration, pack lunches fly to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier, 7200 feet. Distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850 feet.
Day 2 Move to Advanced Base Camp (ABC), 6600 feet on the West Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at the foot of the SW Spur of the Southeast Ridge of Foraker. Fix rope on the 5th class rock above. Distance: 6 miles, elevation gain: net loss 700 feet.
Day 3 Move to camp 1 at 8,600 feet. 50 degree snow and some 5th class rock. Running protection, fixed lines, and 5th class belays. Distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 2000 feet
Day 4 Back carry food and equipment. Fix rope on snow and ice slope above. Return to Camp 1.
Day 5 Move to Camp 2, 10,600 feet. Climb south facing snow and ice slopes weaving around seracs using fix ropes and running protection. Distance: .75 miles, elevation gain: 2000 feet
Day 6 Back carry food and equipment.
Day 7 Fix rope and control snow above Camp 2.
Day 8 Move to Camp 3, 13,400 feet. Climb snow slopes and knife edged corniced ridge using fixed rope and running protection. Distance: 1.5 mile, elevation gain 2800 feet.
Day 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Summit, rest, or weather days
Day 15, 16, 17 Return to Base Camp, fly back to Talkeetna.