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Detailed Description PDF »Equipment List PDF »
Denali, formerly Mt. McKinley, is America's highest mountain and un-surpassed in challenge or scenic beauty. At 20,320 feet, it rises out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that compose the Alaska Range. From our start at base camp, we climb 13,000 vertical feet to the summit — possibly the greatest elevation gain of any mountain in the world. 150 miles north of Anchorage, Denali lays in the heart of Alaska's foremost Denali National Park and Preserve.
The West Rib ascends a direct line up the South Face from the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to the summit ridge. Given a Grade IV, the West Rib is technically more difficult than the West Buttress or the Upper West Rib. The tricky approach to the base of the route, steeper terrain and exposure account for the overall seriousness of the route. 1500' if 30-50° ice and snow at the start and mixed terrain above characterize the route. Summit day is a big push from 16,300 feet and requires a significant amount of fortitude and stamina.
Route: West Rib, Alaska Grade IV, 13,000 feet, 31 miles, 22 days
Deposit: $1000 (Balance Due: 90 days prior to starting date)
Group Limit: 4 expedition members, 2 AMS guides, maintaining a 2:1 ratio.
Cost Includes: AMS Guides, glacier flights, field food and fuel, group camping and climbing equipment, personal issue sleds, base camp fee, camping at AMS in Talkeetna.
You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging in Talkeetna, National Park Service entrance and mountaineering special use fees (totaling $210) to be paid in Talkeetna the first day of the expedition, travelers cancellation insurance, personal equipment and clothing, rental items from AMS, gratuities.
The West Rib was first climbed June 19, 1959 by the Jackson Hole climbers, Sinclair, Breitenbach, Corbet, and Buckingham. This was a major mile stone in North American mountaineering and their ascent was written up in the 1960 American Alpine Club Journal with their faces on the cover.
Unique to Denali's rating system is an implied severity grade that makes any route a serious undertaking. High altitude, extreme weather, and active glaciation combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world to climb. Given a Grade IV, the West Rib is technically harder than the popular West Buttress or the Upper West Rib. The tricky approach to the base of the route and the exposure during the climb account for the overall seriousness of the route. 1500' of 30-50° alpine ice and snow at the start and mixed terrain above characterize the route. Summit day is a big push from 16,300' and requires a significant amount of fortitude and stamina.
The typical time frame to climb Denali is late April to mid-July. The late May departure date for this expedition will hopefully find the Chicken Couloir, at the start of the route, with hard snow and neve' instead of blue ice. The northeast fork should still be in good condition with stable bridges over crevasses. Establishing high camp and making a summit bid in June gives us warmer temperatures up high.
AMS' expedition climbing strategy reflects a concern for giving everyone the best chance to acclimate to a lower oxygen environment. Double carries and rest days allow most people the time for their bodies to adjust. Expeditions carry a pulse oxi-meter to measure blood oxygen saturation levels and prescription drugs to treat life-threatening conditions. Advanced signs or symptoms of pulmonary and/or cerebral edema are serious, life threatening conditions that require immediate descent. Each year AMS is briefed by our medical director, Dr. Peter Hackett, who pioneered high altitude medical research on Denali, on any advancements in the research, prevention, and treatment of altitude-related illnesses. Our training supervisor, Lance Taysom, a life-flight nurse and Park Service mountaineering VIP also keeps us up-to-date. Together they wrote our medical protocols and standing orders which allow AMS instructors to evaluate and treat within the scope of their Wilderness First Responder training. A class on altitude-related injuries is taught and discussion and touching base individually is made a priority. Prevention is paramount.
All applicants must adopt a goal of being in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition. Please don't show up sick, injured, or out-of-shape. On any mountaineering expedition there are factors that are out of our control, namely weather and individual acclimatization rates. By joining a professionally run expedition, you leave expedition logistics, food, equipment and leadership to us. You are responsible for and have control over your physical fitness and climbing ability. It is imperative that everyone joining our expeditions be physically fit when the expedition begins. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for summiting. The more climbing experience you have prior to the climb, the more fun you will have on Denali.
The amount of time needed for training depends on the level of fitness at the start. Climbers make it a priority of being in good shape. Those that are able to, get out and climb a lot. Those with less time to climb lift weights, run, bike, swim, practice martial arts, and red-line the stair master. Athletes need only to adjust their training habits to include Denali-specific routines. Others may have to plan a year or more of serious training in advance to ensure success.
Focus on developing stamina and technical skills over brute strength. Upper body strength is necessary for lifting your pack, shoveling snow, swinging your ice tools and building camp; most strength should be aerobic for the long hard days breaking trail and moving camp. Confidence with crampons and ice tools is necessary for the dramatic exposure and steepness of this route. Train on irregular terrain in poor conditions. Maintain a pulse rate 80% of maximum for a half hour during the workout. Vary your routine to prevent overuse injuries and push yourself without injuring yourself. Think about how much stronger you will be in a blizzard with that 50 - 60 pound pack. Exposing yourself beforehand to similar activities will condition your body. Scramble up peaks, climb snow and vertical ice, embark on a rigorous multi-day winter backpacking trip, ski uphill as well as down hill, go snow shoeing. Pushing yourself in uncomfortable environments while staying focused and alert is training. You cannot successfully prepare for this expedition in your office or solely by training indoors. The more familiar the stress of Denali is for you, the better you can pace, acclimate, and be a team player.
Denali is not the mountain to "just get by" with mediocre equipment. Your gear will be put to the ultimate test. A well thought out layering system will be more comfortable, efficient, lightweight, and hold up. "Quality" does not necessarily mean "expensive" and a trip to the Army surplus store often turns up many of the basics. Read carefully the Equipment List written for this expedition; it answers most questions and gives recommendations for particular items. The equipment listed as "rental" is good quality, in ample supply and will supplement what you do not have. Equipment questions can answered by a knowledgeable sales person in a local climbing store; they are often the most informed about the pros and cons of a particular brand or style. The equipment section of "Denali's West Buttress," by Colby Coombs also provides tips and suggestions. Your guides will insure you are properly outfitted before you go. Please wait until the morning of the first day to check equipment, as we are busy preparing for the expedition a full three days before. Contact AMS with any questions.
AMS provides the food for this expedition. AMS provides hearty, nutritious and balanced meals on its expeditions. Do not be surprised if you do not lose weight on the expedition. All our meals can accommodate vegetarians; please call if you need more specifics. To ensure satisfaction, we suggest that you bring some of your preferred hot and cold drinks and 6 pounds of your favorite trail lunch or snack food to supplement the choices you have from the AMS rations room. Part of this food will be saved for summit day. More information on food is provided on the expedition food sheet. Please contact us if you have any dietary restrictions, allergies or questions.
The West Rib is an excellent climb for any experienced climber who wants an advanced level expedition-style mountaineering experience. The climb starts at Kahiltna Base, 7,200' and travels up the Kahiltna Glacier to the base of Ski Hill and the intersection of the Northeast Fork, 7,800'. Our next camp is Safe Camp at 9,500' in the Northeast Fork. After negotiating an ice fall, we establish camp in the bergshrund at the base of the Chicken Couloir, 11,000'. Using fixed lines, we climb the couloir and cache at 12,500'. The following day, we climb to 12,900' and establish the Apex Camp. Climbing along the ridge, we establish the next camp in a bergshrund at 14,800'. Continuing along the ridge, the next good camp location is in a bergshrund at 16,300'. From here, a summit attempt is usually made or if the group decides, a higher camp at 17,200' can be established. When rested and in suitable climbing conditions, we leave for the summit. Picking our way through the rock bands high on the south face of Mt. McKinley is an awesome mountaineering experience. The Rib ends at 19,300' when we exit onto the Football Field of the West Buttress route and climb the summit ridge to the top. Summit day can take up to 16 hours by the time we return to Camp. From our High Camp, we drop down onto the West Buttress route at Basin Camp 14,200' and return to Kahiltna Base via the West Buttress Route.
AMS approach to Denali falls in line with our mission as a mountaineering school. Denali's summit is a means, not an end, and we push every day to increase our performance. The mountain provides an excellent stage to practice good mountaineering. We expect everyone to share a goal of becoming better climbers on our expeditions.
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines the anticipated schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24hr. clock with the weather.
Day 1 8:00am: meet at AMS for introduction, gear check, and pack lunches, NPS registration.
3:30pm: fly to Base Camp, 7200 feet, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850 feet.
Day 2 Base Camp, 7200 feet: Glacier travel and crevasse rescue review, organize loads.
Day 3 Move to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800 feet, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600 feet.
Day 4 Carry to Safe Camp, 9,500 feet, distance: 6 miles, elevation gain: 1700 feet.
Day 5 Move to Safe Camp, Camp 2, 9,500 feet, distance: 3 miles, elevation gain: 1700 feet.
Day 6 Carry to 11,000 feet, Camp 3, distance: 3 miles, elevation gain: 1500 feet.
Day 7 Move to Camp 3, 11,000 feet, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1500 feet.
Fix lines up the Chicken Couloir in the evening.
Day 8 Carry to 12,500' feet, distance: 1/3 mile, elevation gain: 1500 feet.
Day 9 Move to 12,900 feet, Camp 4, distance: .5 mile, elevation gain: 1900 feet. Pick up cache.
Day 10 Carry to 14,800', distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1900 feet.
Day 11 Move to 14,800 feet, Camp 5, distance: .75 mile, elevation gain: 1900 feet.
Day 12 Rest
Day 13 Carry to 16,300 feet, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 1500 feet.
Day 14 Move to 16,300 feet, Camp 6, distance: .5 mile, elevation gain: 1500 feet.
Day 15, 16, 17, 18 Summit days, distance: 3.5 miles, elevation gain: 3520 feet.
Day 19 Descend to 14,200 feet, distance: 1 mile.
Day 20 Descend to Base Camp, 7,200 feet, distance: 11.25 miles.
Day 21 Fly back to Talkeetna.