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Detailed Description PDF »Equipment List PDF »
The Upper West Rib ascends a fairly direct line up the South Face of Denali from the West Buttress Basin Camp at 14,200 feet to the summit ridge. This approach has proven most effective for avoiding greater challenges on the lower part of the West Rib, but still climbing a more technical and committing route. Unique to Denali's rating system is an implied severity grade that makes any route a serious undertaking. High altitude, extreme weather, and active glaciation combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world to climb. Given a Grade III, the Upper Rib is considerably more difficult than the West Buttress due to the steeper terrain and awesome exposure. 30-45° ice and snow and mixed terrain characterize the Rib's upper face. Summit day is a big push from 16,300 feet and requires a significant amount of fortitude and stamina.
Route: Upper West Rib, Alaska Grade III, 20,320 feet / 6,194 meters, 13,000 feet, 31 miles, 22 days
Deposit: $1000 (Balance Due: 90 days prior to the starting date.)
Group Limit: 4 expedition members, 2 AMS guides, maintaining a 2:1 ratio
Cost Includes: AMS guides, glacier flights, field food and fuel, group camping and climbing equipment, personal issue sleds, base camp fee, camping at AMS in Talkeenta.
You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging in Talkeetna , National Park Service mountaineering special use fee and entrance fee (totaling $210) to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the expedition, travelers' cancellation insurance, personal equipment and clothing, rental items from AMS, gratuities.
The early pioneers in Denali's climbing history were explorers and gold miners who unraveled intricate and formidable approaches to find a northern route to the summit. In 1910, a group of Sourdough miners struck out from Fairbanks to climb the slightly lower North Peak, 19,470 feet. In 1913, Archdeacon Stuck's team climbed the same route via Karsten's Ridge, making the first ascent of the higher South Peak, 20,320 feet. Flying from the south and landing on the Kahiltna in 1951, Bradford Washburn's team pioneered the West Buttress of Denali which is now the most popular route to the summit. The Jackson Hole climbers, Sinclair, Breitenbach, Corbet, and Buckingham first climbed the West Rib June 19, 1959.
AMS' expedition-style climbing strategy reflects a concern for giving everyone the best chance to acclimate to a lower oxygen environment. Double carries, rest days, and 4-5 nights at 14,200' before moving higher allow most people the time for their bodies to adjust. Expeditions carry a pulse oximeter to measure blood oxygen saturation levels and heart rate as well as prescription drugs to treat life-threatening conditions. Advanced signs or symptoms of pulmonary and/or cerebral edema are serious, life-threatening conditions that require immediate descent. AMS is briefed by our medical director Dr. Peter Hackett, who pioneered high altitude medical research on Denali, on any advancements in the research, prevention, and treatment of altitude-related illnesses. Our training supervisor Lance Taysom, chief life-flight RN and NPS mountaineering ranger also keeps us informed. Together they wrote our medical protocols and standing orders that allow AMS instructors to evaluate and treat within the scope of their Wilderness First Responder training. A class on altitude-related injuries is taught, and touching base individually is made a priority. For those suffering from acute mountain sickness, we aknowledge the benefits of Diamox (Acetazolamide) in conjunction with rest and hydration. Any person showing signs of severe acute mountain sickness should not climb to higher elevations until those signs and symptoms go away.
All applicants must adopt a goal of being in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition. Please don't show up sick, injured, or out-of-shape. On any mountaineering expedition there are factors that are out of our control, namely weather and individual acclimatization rates. By joining a professionally run expedition, you leave expedition logistics, food, equipment and leadership to us. You are responsible for and have control over your physical fitness and climbing ability. It is imperative that everyone joining our expeditions be physically fit when the expedition begins. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for summiting. The more climbing experience you have prior to the climb, the more fun you will have on Denali. Remember, Denali is a marathon, not a sprint.
Denali is not a mountain on which you can "just get by" with mediocre equipment. Your gear will be put to the ultimate test. A carefully planned layering system will be more comfortable, efficient, lightweight, and hold up. "Quality" does not necessarily mean "expensive"; a trip to the Army surplus store often turns up many of the basics. Carefully read the equipment list created for this expedition; it answers many questions and gives recommendations for particular items. Try to have equipment questions answered by a knowledgeable salesperson in a local climbing store; they are often the most informed about the pros and cons of a particular brand or style. The equipment section of "Denali's West Buttress" by Colby Coombs also provides tips and suggestions. Your instructors will insure you are properly outfitted before you go. Please wait until the morning of the first day to check equipment at AMS, as we are busy preparing for the expedition for three full days before meeting team members on day one of the expedition. The AMS Mountain Shop is able to provide all your equipment needs from head to toe and give you a discount.
AMS provides all of the food for this expedition. To ensure satisfaction, we suggest that you bring some of your preferred hot and cold drinks and 6 pounds of your favorite trail lunch or snack food to supplement the choices you have from the AMS ration's room. Part of this food will be saved for summit day. More information on food is provided on the expedition food sheet. Please contact us if you have any dietary restrictions or allergies.
The Upper West Rib, a.k.a. "Prime Rib," with its proximity to the Cassin Ridge is an attraction to any experienced climber who wants an advanced level mountaineering experience. We start with a climb of the West Buttress up to 14,200 feet in traditional expedition style, relaying loads, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. The first nine miles of the route is up the Kahiltna Glacier to 11,000 feet. We place 2-3 camps on this section of the route. Above 11,000 feet, the terrain is steeper and we leave our snowshoes or skis and switch to crampons. Advanced base camp (ABC) is 14,200 feet and located in a large basin relatively sheltered from high winds. We often arrive at 14,200 feet on the 7-9th day. After 4-5 days acclimatizing, resting, and making a carry to 16,300 feet, we depart for the upper mountain. The change in perspective of leaving the comforts of ABC and establishing ourselves high on the flanks of Denali is awe-inspiring. When rested and in suitable conditions, we will go for the summit. Climbing through the rocks and ascending the steep exit couloir is the ideal of high altitude mountaineering. Summit day usually takes 12-16 hours. We cannot guarantee it, but we will give it our best shot. Be prepared to be patient and wait. After summiting, we usually take two days from high camp to return to base camp. Sometimes we descend the West Buttress route from the summit and go back up to our high camp to retrieve extra gear. Whatever strategy your team decides, you will be part of the decision making and understand why it makes sense.
The AMS approach to Denali falls in line with our mission as a mountaineering school. Denali's summit is a means, not an end, and we will be pushing every day to increase our skills and performance. The mountain provides an excellent stage to practice good mountaineering. We expect everyone to share a goal of becoming better climbers on our expeditions.
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines the anticipated schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis. We work with the weather.
Day 1 8:00 am meet at AMS for orientation, gear check, NPS registration, pack lunches, 4:30pm fly to Base Camp,7,200 feet distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850 feet
Day 2 Base Camp, 7200 feet: Glacier travel and crevasse rescue review day, take a deep breath and enjoy the view
Day 3 Move to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800 feet, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600 feet
Day 4 Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700 feet, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900 feet
Day 5 Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700 feet, distance: 2.5 miles, elevation gain: 1900 feet, under the right conditions we may move all the way to 11,000'
Day 6 Move to 11,000 feet, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300 feet
Day 7 Rest day
Day 8 Carry to 13,500 feet around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500 feet
Day 9 Move to 14,200 feet, Camp IV, (ABC), distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain:3200 feet
Day 10 Descend and pick up cache at 13,500 feet, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700 feet
Day 11 Carry to 16,300 feet, distance: 2.5 miles, elevation gain: 2100 feet
Day 12 Rest at 14,200 feet
Day 13 Move to 16,300 feet, Camp V, distance: 1.25 miles, elevation gain: 2100 feet
Day 14 Rest at 16,300 feet
Day 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 Summit days, distance: 3.5 miles, elevation gain: 3520 feet
Day 20 Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000 feet, distance: 3.5 miles
Day 21 Return to Base Camp, 7,200 feet, distance: 11.25 miles, fly back to Talkeetna
Day 22 Weather day