 |
Mt. McKinley / Denali West Buttress
ELEVATION:
20,320'/6,194M
ROUTE:
West Buttress, Alaska Grade II, 13,000' Elevation Gain,
41 miles, 21 days
GROUP LIMIT:
6 expedition members, 2 or 3 guides
The Mountain
Denali, formerly Mt. McKinley, is America's highest
mountain and un-surpassed in challenge or scenic beauty. At 20,320
feet, it rises out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that make
up the Alaska Range. From our start at base camp, we climb 13,000
vertical feet to the summit - the greatest elevation gain of any
mountain in the world. 150 miles north of Anchorage, Denali lies
in the heart of Alaska's foremost Denali National Park and Preserve.
History
The early pioneers in Denali's climbing history were
explorers and gold miners who unraveled the intricate and formidable
approaches to find a northern route to the summit. In 1910, a group
of Sourdough miners struck out from Fairbanks to climb the slightly
lower North Peak, 19,470 feet. In 1913, Archdeacon Stuck's team
climbed the same route via Kirsten's Ridge, making the first ascent
of the higher South Peak, 20,320 feet. Flying from the south and
landing on the Kahiltna Glacier the West Buttress of Denali was
pioneered by Bradford Washburn's team in 1951 and is the most popular
route to the summit. A signed copy of the guidebook, Denali's
West Buttress: A Climber's Guide by Colby Coombs is sent to all expedition members.
Grade/Difficulty
Given a Grade II, the West Buttress shares with the Muldrow route the status of having the lowest grade on Denali. This implies it is the "easiest and safest route" to the summit. Relative to other climbs on Denali, it is easier and the terrain is safer. Be warned though, it is never easy on Denali. Unique to Denali's rating system is an implied severity grade that makes any route a serious undertaking. High altitude, extreme weather, and active glaciation combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world to climb.
Weather
It is often said that the greatest challenge of Denali
is not the climbing, but the weather. Denali is a sub arctic mountain
while most of the world's highest mountains are near the equator.
Denali is located in the middle of the southern Alaskan mainland 200
miles south of the Arctic Circle at 63° North Latitude. This is
35° further north than Everest; this is the same latitude as northern
Hudson Bay and central Scandinavia. Denali's northern location results
in a climate around its summit that presents one of the most severe
year-round averages of any spot on earth. The weather on Denali will
dictate our every move and it is fickle and un-predictable. It will
force us to be flexible and patient and sometimes spontaneous. It
is the one thing we cannot change, only accommodate.
When to Climb
The most common question asked by climbers is "which is the best month to climb?" There is no right answer as every year is different than the previous. It is generally agreed that the practical climbing season on Denali begins in late April and lasts through to the end of July, shrinking the acceptable window down to 90 days. In March and April, cold temperatures and strong winds at higher elevations make conditions too severe. The month of May shows less precipitation on average than June or July, but it is colder and requires more aggressive cold-injury prevention. Statistically, there are more people on the mountain in June. All AMS Denali expeditions are scheduled to be in position to summit in June or early July and take advantage of warmer temperatures at night and 24 hour day light.
Acclimatization
AMS' expedition climbing strategy reflects a concern for giving everyone the best chance to acclimate to a lower oxygen environment. Double carries, rest
days, and 4-5 nights at 14,200' before moving higher allow most people the time for their bodies to adjust. Expeditions carry a pulse oximeter to measure
blood oxygen saturation levels and prescription drugs to treat life-threatening conditions. Advanced signs or symptoms of pulmonary and/or cerebral edema
are serious, life threatening conditions that require immediate descent. Each year AMS is briefed by our medical director, Dr. Peter Hackett, who pioneered
high altitude medical research on Denali, on any advancements in the research, prevention, and treatment of altitude-related illnesses. Our training
supervisor, Lance Taysom, a life-flight nurse and Park Service mountaineering VIP also keeps us up-to-date. Together they wrote our medical protocols and
standing orders which allow AMS instructors to evaluate and treat within the scope of their Wilderness First Responder training. A class on altitude-related
injuries is taught and discussion and touching base individually is made a priority.
Prior Experience
Denali is a tremendous challenge for people with the experience and attitude to enjoy the rigors of expedition life. As an advanced climb, Denali requires a
significant amount of prior climbing experience and
|
|
training beforehand. For the best chance of success, applicants should be in excellent physical condition
and have climbed mountaineering routes that require roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and the use of an ice axe and crampons. Prior winter camping
and travel experience for extended periods of time is essential training. Dealing with the cold on Denali is a day-to-day challenge. Climbing knots, rope
handling, and belaying should be second nature. The ability to immediately arrest a fall on a steep snow slope with a pack is paramount to your safety and
the safety of your rope team. Above 16,000 feet, expect to crampon with a 60-plus pound pack on slopes up to 30-35°. Some sections of the route require
you to bend down and clip through running belays. The mountain is too severe to be learning these skills for the first time. Smaller peaks in the Alaska
Range, winter climbs of Mt. Washington, Colorado 14'ers, Mt. Rainier, the Teton's, Mount Blanc are suitable training grounds for Denali. A non-technical,
high altitude climb is an effective way to train for the altitude. Our strongest participants have taken a mountaineering course, trained through the
winter, and joined an expedition the following summer. We do not accept applications from beginners who want to take a course and climb Denali in the
same summer.
Leadership and Team Work
Successful expeditions are properly equipped, have the necessary skills, but most importantly they learn to become a strong team. Leadership reflects the
art of effective team building. From base camp to advanced base camp (ABC) your instructors teach classes and initiate you to the expectations of
un-supported expedition life. Above ABC all the way to the summit is the testing phase and a place to show signs of strength: tight camps, efficient travel
techniques, and a positive attitude. We expect you to stay organized, participate fully, have fun and support the goal of being on a strong and safe
expedition. Of primary importance is taking responsibility for monitoring yourself; you know best how you feel, how you sleep, how you recover each day.
As a team, we are able to help if someone is having a bad day and communicates this. Every member must ultimately be a regular contributor for the
expedition to be successful. Not participating, or failing to meet the day-to-day demands may mean your departure from the expedition. We expect you
to have self-leadership skills and good expedition behavior (EB): be supportive, solution-oriented, hard working, patient, and take initiative and you
will be rewarded with the climb of a lifetime.
Group Size and Ratio
3 or 4 guides and up to 9 expedition members make for
a strong and flexible expedition. This has proven to be a safe and
efficient group size on Denali, especially if there is a need for
the guide team to split up temporarily and take an expedition member
down. The remaining team can continue to make progress up the mountain.
The shear amount of work needed to build camp and ferry loads requires
a larger group size to get the job done. It makes for a more jovial
experience as well.
Instructors/Guides
AMS instructors are unique professionals who love the
mountains in Alaska and have a gift for climbing, teaching, and
mountain guiding.
|
|
Just being a good guide is not enough to guarantee
success. Our instructors are talented climbers with extensive back
country experience to draw upon. Lead guides have a wealth of experience
on Denali as well as teaching mountaineering courses on the surrounding
peaks. All our staff is familiar with altitude-related problems,
extreme weather, and know how to set the pace for a successful expedition.
All our staff members have mountain rescue, avalanche safety, and
wilderness medical training. Their knowledge of the natural and
climbing history of the area and personal stories of climbing in
Alaska add immensely to the climb. Their strength, stamina, and
leadership are the right stuff for a climb like Denali.
Training
All applicants must adopt a goal of being in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition. Please don't show up sick, injured, or out-of-shape.
On any mountaineering expedition there are factors that are completely out of the control of anyone, namely weather and individual acclimatization rates. By
joining a professionally run expedition, you leave expedition logistics, food, equipment and leadership to us. You are responsible for and have control over your physical fitness and climbing ability. It is imperative that everyone joining our expeditions be physically fit when the expedition begins. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for summitting. The more climbing experience you have prior to the climb, the more fun you will have on Denali.
The amount of time needed for training depends on the level of fitness at the start. Climbers make it a priority of being in good shape. Those that are able
get out and climb. Climbers with less time exercise to stay in shape: lift weights, run, bike, swim, martial arts, and stair master. Athletes need only to
adjust their training habits to include Denali-specific routines. Others may have to plan a year or more of serious training in advance to ensure success.
Focus on developing stamina over brute strength. Upper body strength is necessary for lifting your pack, shoveling snow, and building camp, but most strength
should be aerobic for the long hard days breaking trail and moving camp. Train on irregular terrain in poor conditions. Maintain a pulse rate 80% of maximum
for a half hour during the workout. Vary your routine to prevent overuse injuries and push yourself without injuring yourself. Think about how much stronger you will be in a blizzard with that 50-60 pound pack attached to a 40 lb. sled. Exposing yourself beforehand to similar activities will condition your body. Scramble up peaks, climb snow and ice, embark on a rigorous multi-day winter backpacking trip, ski uphill as well as down hill, go snow shoeing. Pushing yourself in uncomfortable environments while staying focused and alert is training. You cannot successfully prepare for this expedition in your office or solely by training indoors. The more familiar the stress of Denali is for you, the better you can pace, acclimate, and be a team player.
Equipment
Denali is not the mountain to "just get by" with mediocre equipment. Your gear will be put to the ultimate test. A thought out layering system will be more
comfortable, efficient, lightweight, and hold up. "Quality" does not necessarily mean "expensive" and a trip to the
Army surplus store often turns up many
of the basics. Read carefully the Equipment List written for this expedition; it answers many questions and gives recommendations for particular items.
The equipment listed as "rental" is good quality and in ample supply and will supplement what you do not have. Try to have equipment questions answered
by a knowledgeable sales person in a local climbing store; they are often the most informed about the pros and cons of a particular brand or style. The
equipment section of Denali's West Buttress, by
Colby Coombs; also provides tips and suggestions. Your instructors will insure you are properly outfitted before you go. Please wait until the morning
of the first day to check equipment, as we are busy preparing for the expedition a full three days before.
Food
AMS provides hearty, nutritious and balanced meals on
its expeditions. Do not be surprised if you fail to lose weight
on the expedition. A spreadsheet rations program and faithful recipes
balance calories, carbohydrates, fats, proteins, and weight to create
a variety of tasty and creative meals that build strength and maintain
health. Up to 14,200 feet we eat pasta, rice and bean burritos,
English muffins, bagels, and pizzas till you are bloated. As we
gain altitude, lighter and more easily digested foods are used.
Examples include: hash browns, noodles, rice, mashed potatoes, Ramen,
couscous, soup, tortellini, dried vegetables. We avoid freeze-dried
meal-in-a-bags as they are typically inadequate portions and lack
taste. Our rations come from organic wholesalers from Washington
State and a modern supermarket in Anchorage. All our meals can accommodate
vegetarians; please call if you need more specifics. AMS provides
almost all of the food for this expedition. To ensure satisfaction,
we ask that you bring a preferred hot and cold drinks for 20 days:
tea, cocoa, instant coffee, and cold drink mixes like Gatorade.
Go easy on the sugar mixes that can end up weighing a ton. We also
ask that you bring three, 2 lb bags of your favorite lunch food.
One of these bags will be saved for summit day. Please contact us
if you have any dietary restrictions or questions.
Travel & Logistics
Plan to arrive in Talkeetna one day before the expedition
starting date. This gives you the best chance to rest and be ready
to go at 8:00 a.m. the starting day. Fly to Anchorage, Alaska. Catch
the shuttle to Talkeetna or take a taxi to the Earth Tours B&B and
catch the shuttle in the morning. Once in Talkeetna, check into
the Chinook Winds B&B or other Talkeetna motel or camp at AMS. Relax
and walk around Talkeetna. Check out the river, ranger station,
and the climbing museum if you have time before your expedition.
Expect to leave Talkeetna the morning following the last day of
the expedition. Please read the Travel and Logistics form for more
information. See full info page
Talkeetna Facilities
AMS is the oldest and only outdoor school and guiding company located in downtown Talkeetna. We are not seasonal visitors; we live here. Our office and staging area are located at the end of 3rd street, adjacent to the local airstrip. We are grateful to have such an excellent location and facilities to properly outfit expeditions and serve our expedition members. A large staging area allows us to check gear and practice fixed line ascension. Our campground is across from the National Park Service and is set up with tents and sleeping pads. In the event of un-flyable weather, our facility provides a comfortable area to teach classes, show slide shows and videos, and be productive during a "Talkeetna hang."
References
AMS is a professionally run operation committed to high
standards at all levels. We urge you to carefully research and look
into climbing with us. Search for Alaska Mountaineering School and
the directors Caitlin Palmer and Colby Coombs on the Internet. Talk
to climbing rangers in the Talkeetna Ranger Station ph. 907-733-2231.
While they are not permitted to openly brag about AMS, many of them
were AMS instructors before becoming rangers. Try calling your local
climbing store and ask if they have heard of us. We are small, but
our word of mouth reputation extends far. Our guides and instructors
represent a tight group of over 50 professional educators and mountain
guides whose professional affiliation includes: Jackson Hole Mountain
Guides, Exum, AMGA, NOLS, Valdez Heli Guides, Mountain Trip, and
Mountain Madness. A note on certification: other than AMS’
Mountain Guides Course, there is not an available certification
in the US or Europe that takes into account the expedition skills
necessary to guide in the Alaska Range. AMS has spear headed an
initiative to develop an expedition component to the AMGA Alpine
certification, but it is a slow and political process involving
Europe’s UIAGM.
The Climb
We climb the West Buttress in traditional expedition style, relaying loads, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization.
The first nine miles of the route is up the Kahiltna
Glacier to 11,000 feet. We typically place three camps on this section of the route. Above 11,000 feet,
the terrain steepen's and we switch to crampons. ABC is 14,200 feet and located in a large basin relatively sheltered from high winds. We often arrive at
14,200 feet on the 9th day. The views of Mt. Hunter and Mt. Foraker from here are amazing. After 4-5 days acclimatizing, resting, and making a carry to
16,200 feet, we depart for the upper mountain. Between 15,500 feet and 16,200 feet are 40-45° slopes so we climb clipped to a fixed rope to safeguard
our movements. We often place a camp at the top of the fixed ropes at 16,200 feet to break up the climb or wait for better weather. The stretch to high camp
at 17,200 feet is the most scenic part of the route and climbs a narrow ridge to 17,200 feet. When rested and in suitable weather, we will go for the
summit. Summit day usually takes 10-14 hours. We cannot guarantee it, but we give it our best shot. Be prepared to wait. After summitting, it usually
takes 2 days from high camp to return to base camp.
AMS' approach to Denali falls in line with our mission as a school of mountaineering. Denali's summit is a means, not an end, and we will be pushing every day to increase our performance. The mountain provides an excellent stage to practice good mountaineering. We expect all members to share a goal of becoming better climbers on our expeditions.
Itinerary
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine
our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and
outlines the anticipated schedule. Our style on the mountain is
flexible and will fluctuate on a 24hr. clock.
Day 1
Orientation, gear check, NPS registration, pack lunches, fly to
Base Camp, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850 feet. 8:00 am
meet at AMS for introduction, gear check, and pack lunches. 3:30 pm
fly to Base Camp, 7200 feet.
Day 2
Base Camp: glacier travel and crevasse rescue review day.
Day 3
Move to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800 feet, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation
gain: 600 feet
Day 4
Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700 feet, distance: 5 miles, elevation
gain: 1900 feet.
Day 5
Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700 feet, distance: 2.5 miles,
elevation gain: 1900 feet.
Day 6
Move to 11,000 feet, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain:
1300 feet.
Day 7
Rest day
Day 8
Carry to 13,500 feet around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles,
elevation gain: 2500 feet.
Day 9
Move to 14,200 feet, Camp IV, (ABC), distance: 2.75 miles, elevation
gain:3200 feet.
Day 10
Descend and pick up cache at 13,500 feet, distance: 1 mile, elevation
gain: 700 feet.
Day 11
Carry to 16,200 feet, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 2000 feet.
Day 12
Rest at 14,200 feet.
Day 13
Move to 16,200 feet or 17,200 feet, Camp V, distance: 1.75 miles,
elevation gain: 3000 feet.
Day 14
Rest day or move to 17,200 feet, C amp VI, distance: 1.75 miles,
elevation gain: 3000 feet.
Day 15, 16, 17, 18,
Summit days, distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3120 feet.
Day 19
Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000 feet, distance: 2.25 miles.
Day 20
Return to Base Camp, 7,200 feet, distance: 11.25 miles.
Day 21
Fly back to Talkeetna.
[Click
For Graduates' Comments]
|
