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Mt. McKinley / Denali's Upper West Rib
ELEVATION:
20,320'/6,194M
ROUTE:
Upper West Rib, Alaska Grade III, 13,000' Elevation Gain, 31 miles
GROUP LIMIT:
2 guides, 4 expedition members
COST INCLUDES:
Guides, glacier flight, group gear, food and fuel
YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR:
Getting to Talkeetna, National Park Service climber's fee paid in Talkeetna, personal equipment and clothing, drinks, 6 lbs of lunches, hotel lodging (AMS campground is free, tents provided)
The Mountain
Denali, formerly Mt. McKinley, is America's highest mountain and un-surpassed in challenge or scenic beauty. At 20,320 feet, it rises out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that compose the Alaska Range. From our start at base camp, we climb 13,000 vertical feet to the summit - possibly the greatest elevation gain of any mountain in the world. 150 miles north of Anchorage, Denali lays in the heart of Alaska's foremost Denali National Park and Preserve. The Upper Rib ascends a direct line up the south face from the West Buttress Basin Camp at 14,200 feet to the summit ridge.
History
The early pioneers in Denali's climbing history were explorers and gold miners who unraveled intricate and formidable approaches to find a northern route to the summit. In 1910, a group of Sourdough miners struck out from Fairbanks to climb the slightly lower North Peak, 19,470 feet. In 1913, Archdeacon Stuck's team climbed the same route via Karsten's Ridge, making the first ascent of the higher South Peak, 20,320 feet. Flying from the south and landing on the Kahiltna Glacier The West Buttress of Denali was pioneered by Bradford Washburn's team in 1951 and is the most popular route to the summit. The West Rib was first climbed June 19, 1959 by the Jackson Hole climbers, Sinclair, Breitenbach, Corbet, and Buckingham.
Grade/Difficulty
Unique to Denali's rating system is an implied severity grade that makes any route a serious undertaking. High altitude, extreme weather, and active glaciation combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world to climb. Given a Grade III, the Upper Rib is considerably more difficult than the West Buttress due to the steeper terrain and awesome exposure. 30-45° ice and snow and mixed terrain characterize the Rib's upper face. Summit day is a big push from 16,300' and requires a significant amount of fortitude and stamina.
Weather
It is often said that the greatest challenge of Denali
is not the climbing, but the weather. Denali is a sub Arctic mountain
while most of the world's highest mountains are near the equator.
Denali is located in the middle of the southern Alaskan mainland
200 miles south of the Arctic Circle at 63° North Latitude.
This is 35° further north than Everest; this is the same latitude
as northern Hudson Bay and central Scandinavia. Denali's northern
location results in a climate around its summit that presents one
of the most severe year-round averages of any spot on earth. The
weather on Denali will dictate our every move and it is fickle and
un-predictable. It will force us to be flexible and patient and
sometimes spontaneous. It is the one thing we cannot change, only
accommodate.
When to Climb
The most common question asked by climbers is "which is the best month to climb?" There is no right answer as every year is different than the previous. It is generally agreed that the practical climbing season on Denali begins in late April and lasts through to the end of July, shrinking the acceptable window down to 90 days. In March and April, cold temperatures and strong winds at higher elevations make conditions too severe. The month of May shows less precipitation on average than June or July, but it is colder and requires more aggressive cold-injury prevention. Statistically, there are more people on the mountain in June. All AMS Denali expeditions are scheduled to be in position to summit in June or early July and take advantage of warmer temperatures at night and 24 hour day light.
Acclimatization
AMS' expedition climbing strategy reflects a concern for giving everyone the best chance to acclimate to a lower oxygen environment. Double carries, rest days, and 4-5 nights at 14,200' before moving higher allow most people the time for their bodies to adjust. Expeditions carry a pulse oximeter to measure blood oxygen saturation levels and prescription drugs to treat life-threatening conditions. Advanced signs or symptoms of pulmonary and/or cerebral edema are serious, life threatening conditions that require immediate descent. Each year AMS is briefed by our medical director, Dr. Peter Hackett, who pioneered high altitude medical research on Denali, on any advancements in the research, prevention, and treatment of altitude-related illnesses. Our training supervisor, Lance Taysom, a life-flight nurse and Park Service mountaineering VIP also keeps us up-to-date. Together they wrote our medical protocols and standing orders which allow AMS instructors to evaluate and treat within the scope of their Wilderness First Responder training. A class on altitude-related injuries is taught and discussion and touching base individually is made a priority.
Prior Experience
Denali's Upper Rib is a tremendous challenge for people with the Denali's Upper Rib is a tremendous challenge for people with the experience and attitude to enjoy the rigors of expedition life and apply themselves to an outstanding mountaineering challenge. As an advanced climb, the Rib requires a significant amount of prior climbing experience and training beforehand. For the best chance of success, applicants should be in excellent physical condition and have climbed steep mountaineering routes that require roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and the extensive use of an ice axe and crampons. Prior experience above 18,000 feet, technical winter climbing and travel for extended periods of time is necessary and a requirement. Dealing with the cold on Denali is a day-to-day challenge. Climbing knots, rope handling, and belaying should be second nature. The ability to immediately arrest a fall on a steep snow slope with a pack is paramount to your safety and the safety of your rope team. Above 15,000 feet, expect to crampon in balance with a 60-plus pound pack on slopes up to 30-35 °. Many sections of the route require you to bend down and clip through running belays while wearing a pack. This route is too steep to be un-practiced in these skills. Other peaks in the Alaska Range, technical winter climbs of Mt. Washington, Colorado 14'ers, Mt. Rainier, the Teton's, Mount Blanc are suitable training grounds for the West Rib. A non-technical, high altitude climb is an effective way to train for the altitude.
Leadership and Team Work
Successful expeditions are properly equipped, have the necessary skills, but most importantly they learn to become a strong team. Leadership reflects the art of effective team building. From base camp to advanced base camp (ABC) your instructors teach classes and initiate you to the expectations of un-supported expedition life. Above ABC all the way to the summit is the testing phase and a place to show signs of strength: tight camps, efficient travel techniques, and a positive attitude. We expect you to stay organized, participate fully, have fun and support the goal of being on a strong and safe expedition. Of primary importance is taking responsibility for monitoring yourself; you know best how you feel, how you sleep, how you recover each day. As a team, we are able to help if someone is having a bad day and communicates this. Every member must ultimately be a regular contributor for the expedition to be successful. Not participating, or failing to meet the day-to-day demands may mean your departure from the expedition. We expect you to have self-leadership skills and good expedition behavior (EB): be supportive, solution-oriented, hard working, patient, and take initiative and you will be rewarded with the climb of a lifetime.
Group Size and Ratio
2 guides and up to 4 expedition members.
Instructors
AMS instructors are unique professionals who love the
mountains and have a gift for climbing, teaching, and mountain guiding.
Just being a good guide is not enough to guarantee success. Our
instructors are talented climbers with extensive back country experience
to draw upon. Lead instructors have a wealth of experience on Denali
as well as teaching mountaineering courses on the surrounding peaks.
All our staff is familiar with altitude-related problems, extreme
weather, and knows how to set the pace for a successful expedition.
All our staff members have mountain rescue, avalanche safety and
wilderness medical training. Their knowledge of the natural and
climbing history of the area and personal stories of climbing in
Alaska add immensely to the climb. Their strength, stamina, and
leadership are the right stuff for something like Denali.
Training
All applicants must adopt a goal of being in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition. Please don't show up sick, injured, or out-of-shape. On any mountaineering expedition there are factors that are completely out of the control of anyone, namely weather and individual acclimatization rates. By joining a professionally run expedition, you leave expedition logistics, food, equipment and leadership to us. You are responsible for and have control over your physical fitness and climbing ability. It is imperative that everyone joining our expeditions be physically fit when the expedition begins. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for summitting. The more climbing experience you have prior to the climb, the more fun you will have on Denali.
The amount of time needed for training depends on the level of fitness at the start. Climbers make it a priority of being in good shape. Those that are able get out and climb. Climbers with less time exercise to stay in shape: lift weights, run, bike, swim, martial arts, and stair master. Athletes need only to adjust their training habits to include Denali-specific routines. Others may have to plan a year or more of serious training in advance to ensure success.
Focus on developing stamina over brute strength. Upper body strength is necessary for lifting your pack, shoveling snow, and building camp, but most strength should be aerobic for the long hard days breaking trail and moving camp. Train on irregular terrain in poor conditions. Maintain a pulse rate 80% of maximum for a half hour during the workout. Vary your routine to prevent overuse injuries and push yourself without injuring yourself. Think about how much stronger you will be in a blizzard with that 50 - 60 pound pack attached to a 40 lb. sled. Exposing yourself beforehand to similar activities will condition your body. Scramble up peaks, climb snow and ice, embark on a rigorous multi-day winter backpacking trip, ski uphill as well as down hill, go snow shoeing. Pushing yourself in uncomfortable environments while staying focused and alert is training. You cannot successfully prepare for this expedition in your office or solely by training indoors. The more familiar the stress of Denali is for you, the better you can pace, acclimate, and be a team player.
Equipment
Denali is not the mountain to "just get by" with mediocre equipment. Your gear will be put to the ultimate test. A well thought out layering system will be more comfortable, efficient, lightweight, and hold up. "Quality" does not necessarily mean "expensive" and a trip to the Army surplus store often turns up many of the basics. Read carefully the Equipment List written for this expedition; it answers most questions and gives recommendations for particular items. The equipment listed as "rental" is good quality and in ample supply and will supplement what you do not have. Try to have equipment questions answered by a knowledgeable sales person in a local climbing store; they are often the most informed about the pros and cons of a particular brand or style. The equipment section of Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide, by Colby Coombs; also provides tips and suggestions. Your instructors will insure you are properly outfitted before you go. Please wait until the morning of the first day to check equipment, as we are busy preparing for the expedition a full three days before.
Food
AMS provides hearty, nutritious and balanced meals on
its expeditions. Do not be surprised if you fail to lose weight
on the expedition. A spreadsheet rations program and faithful recipes
balance calories, carbohydrates, fats, proteins, and weight to create
a variety of tasty and creative meals that build strength and maintain
health. Up to 14,200 feet we eat pasta, rice and bean burritos,
English muffins, bagels, and pizzas till you are bloated. As we
gain altitude, lighter and more easily digested foods are used.
Examples include: hash browns, noodles, rice, mashed potatoes, Ramen,
couscous, soup, tortellini, dried vegetables. We avoid freeze-dried
meal-in-a-bags as they are typically inadequate portions and lack
taste. Our rations come from organic wholesalers from Washington
State and a modern supermarket in Anchorage. All our meals can accommodate
vegetarians; please call if you need more specifics. AMS provides
almost all of the food for this expedition. To ensure satisfaction,
we ask that you bring a preferred hot and cold drinks for 22 days:
tea, cocoa, instant coffee, and cold drink mixes like Gatorade.
Go easy on the sugar mixes that can end up weighing a ton. We also
ask that you bring three, 2 lb bags of your favorite lunch food.
One of these bags will be saved for summit day. Please contact us
if you have any dietary restrictions or questions.
Travel & Logistics
Plan to arrive in Talkeetna one day before the expedition starting date. This gives you the best chance to rest and be ready to go at 8:00 a.m. the starting day. Fly to Anchorage, Alaska. Catch the shuttle to Talkeetna or take a taxi to the Earth Tours B&B and catch the shuttle in the morning. Once in Talkeetna, check into the Chinook Winds B&B or other Talkeetna motel or camp at AMS. Relax and walk around Talkeetna. Check out the river, ranger station, and the climbing museum if you have time before your expedition. Expect to leave Talkeetna the morning following the last day of the expedition. Please read the Travel and Logistics form for more information.
Talkeetna Facilities
AMS is the oldest and only outdoor school and guiding company located in downtown Talkeetna. We are not seasonal visitors; we live here. Our office and staging area are located at the end of 3rd street, adjacent to the local airstrip. We are grateful to have such an excellent location and facilities to properly outfit expeditions and serve our expedition members. A large staging area allows us to check gear and practice fixed line ascension. Our campground is across from the National Park Service and is set up with tents and sleeping pads. In the event of un-flyable weather, our facility provides a comfortable area to teach classes, show slide shows and videos, and be productive during a "Talkeetna hang."
References
AMS is a professionally run operation committed to high
standards at all levels. We urge you to carefully research and look
into climbing Denali. Search for us on the Internet with key words:
lamas or colby coombs. Talk to climbing rangers in the Talkeetna
Ranger Station (907-733-2231). Call your local climbing store and
ask if they have heard of us. Call the American Mountain Guide's
Association, (303) 271-0984. We are a tight group of 50 professional
educators and mountain guides who have reached senior status at:
National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), Jackson Hole Mountain
Guides, Colorado Mountain School, American Alpine Institute, Outward
Bound, Prescott College, and Alaska Pacific University.
The Climb
The Upper West Rib, aka "Prime Rib," with its proximity to the Cassin Ridge is an attraction to any experienced climber who wants an advanced level mountaineering experience. We start with a climb of the West Buttress up to 14,200' in traditional expedition style, relaying loads, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. The first nine miles of the route is up the Kahiltna Glacier to 11,000 feet. We place three camps on this section of the route. Above 11,000 feet, the terrain steepen's and we switch to crampons. ABC is 14,200 feet and located in a large basin relatively sheltered from high winds. We often arrive at 14,200 feet on the 9th day. After 4-5 days acclimatizing, resting, and making a carry to 16,300 feet, we depart for the upper mountain. The change in perspective leaving the comforts of ABC and establishing ourselves high on the flanks of Denali is staggering. When rested and in suitable conditions, we will go for the summit. Winding through the rocks and ascending the exit couloir is all about high altitude mountaineering. Summit day usually takes 10-14 hours. We cannot guarantee it, but we will give it our best shot. Be prepared to be patient and wait. After summitting, it usually takes 2 days from high camp to return to base camp.
Itinerary
AMS approach to Denali falls in line with our mission as a mountaineering school. Denali's summit is a means, not an end, and we will be pushing every day to increase our performance. The mountain provides an excellent stage to practice good mountaineering. We expect everyone to share a goal of becoming better climbers on our expeditions.
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines the anticipated schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24hr. clock. We work with the weather.
Day 1 Orientation, gear check, NPS registration, pack lunches, fly to Base Camp, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850 feet. 8:00 am meet at AMS/ADG for introduction, gear check, and pack lunches. 3:30 pm fly to Base Camp, 7200 feet.
Day 2 Base Camp, 7200 feet: Glacier travel and crevasse rescue review day.
Day 3 Move to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800 feet, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600 feet
Day 4 Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700 feet, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900 feet.
Day 5 Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700 feet, distance: 2.5 miles, elevation gain: 1900 feet.
Day 6 Move to 11,000 feet, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300 feet.
Day 7 Rest day
Day 8 Carry to 13,500 feet around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500 feet.
Day 9 Move to 14,200 feet, Camp IV, (ABC), distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain:3200 feet.
Day 10 Descend and pick up cache at 13,500 feet, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700 feet.
Day 11 Carry to 16,300 feet, distance: 2.5 miles, elevation gain: 2100 feet.
Day 12 Rest at 14,200 feet.
Day 13 Move to 16,300 feet, Camp V, distance: 1.25 miles, elevation gain: 2100 feet.
Day 14 Rest at 16,300 feet.
Day 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 Summit days, distance: 3.5 miles, elevation gain: 3520 feet.
Day 20 Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000 feet, distance: 3.5 miles.
Day 21 Return to Base Camp, 7,200 feet, distance: 11.25 miles.
Day 22 Fly back to Talkeetna.
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