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Detailed Description PDF »Equipment List PDF »Aconcagua Travel Info »
At just under 7000 meters, Aconcagua ranks as the highest mountain outside of Asia. The exact origin of its name is unclear, but translates to Stone Sentinel from the Inca word, "Acon Cahuak." Located in the heart of the Central Andes, Aconcagua was first climbed in 1897 from the northwest via the Horcornes Valley. Named the Normal Route, it is the most direct way up the mountain.
Route: Normal Route, Grade ii, 13,910 feet elevation gain, 19 days
Deposit: $1000 • Balance Due: 90 days prior to starting date
Group Size: 6 climbers, 2-3 AMS lead guides
Cost Includes: Professional guiding, field food and fuel, group camping and climbing equipment, mule support and high altitude porter assistance for group gear, airport transfer, double occupancy hotel lodging in Mendoza with breakfast: 2 nights at beginning, 1 night at end; Lodging and meals in Penetentes 1 night.
You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Mendoza, Argentina, meals in Mendoza, beverages in Penetentes, personal equipment and clothing, optional amenities on the climb such as high altitude porter assistance, travelers cancellation insurance (highly recommended), guide gratuities. Group Size & Ratio: Minimum 4 and maximum 6 expedition members and 2-3 guides.
Given a Grade II, Aconcagua's False Normal Route does not require the use of ropes accept for the occasional belay. However, that should not translate to "easy." We will not under-estimate the difficulty of extreme altitude, high winds, scree, snow slopes, and penetentes. These factors combine to make Aconcagua a great mountaineering challenge.
AMS expeditions have a goal of safely reaching the summit in good style. Mountaineering is a problem solving discipline, and most failures attribute to poor decision making, while success follows attention to details and good judgment. Summit success requires some luck with the weather, but many variables are in our control and AMS stacks the odds in its favor. We like keeping to our schedule and know that Logistics need to be seamless. AMS expeditions travel safely and efficiently, our camps are fortified, individual strengths are maintained with healthy diets, and we work together as a team. AMS guides are professional mountain guides, and we are climbing instructors committed to mountaineering in a strong, intelligent, safe, enjoyable, and environmentally responsible manner. Having guides with a solid foundation in teaching and personal climbing achievement is a unique quality of AMS and adds greatly to the overall experience for all expedition members. We work hard to help all participants perform at their best.
AMS climbing strategy allows team members enough time to adjust to the lower oxygen environment found at high altitude. The lack of roped travel allows team members to set their own pace and take frequent standing breather-breaks. The menu plan reflects easy to eat foods and emphasizes hydration with soups before dinner. Guides carry altitude meds and a pulse oximeter which measures blood oxygen saturation levels. We have the utmost respect for altitude-related illnesses, prevention is the best cure.
Aconcagua is a tremendous challenge for people with the experience and physical and mental stamina to enjoy the rigors of expedition life. As a non-technical high altitude climb, Aconcagua does not require a significant amount of prior climbing experience, but the mountain should not be under-estimated. Applicants must be in excellent physical condition and be familiar with winter back packing, the use of an ice axe for self-arrest, and cramponing.
Successful expeditions are properly equipped, have the necessary skills, but most importantly they learn to become a strong team. Leadership reflects the art of effective team building. As a team, we are able to help if someone is having a bad day, but every member must ultimately be a regular contributor for the expedition to be successful. We want you to be rewarded with the climb of a lifetime.
AMS guides are unique professionals who love the mountains and have a gift for climbing, teaching, and mountain guiding. Just being good at guiding is not enough to guarantee success. Our staff are talented climbers with extensive back country experience to draw upon. Lead guides have a wealth of experience on Aconcagua as well as on Denali and teaching mountaineering courses. All AMS staff are familiar with altitude-related problems, extreme weather, and know how to set the pace for a successful expedition. All staff have mountain rescue, avalanche safety and wilderness medical training. Their knowledge of the natural and climbing history of the area and personal stories of climbing in South America add to the climb. Their strength, stamina, and leadership are the right ingredients for Aconcagua.
All applicants must adopt a goal of being in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition. On any mountaineering expedition there are factors that are completely out our control, namely weather and individual acclimatization rates. By joining a professionally run expedition, you leave expedition logistics, food, equipment and leadership to us. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for summitting.
Clothing and equipment on an expedition is put to the ultimate test. A thought out clothing layering system will be more comfortable, efficient, lightweight, and durable. Read carefully the Equipment List written for this expedition; it answers most questions and gives recommendations for particular items.
AMS provides hearty, nutritious, and balanced meals on its expeditions. Using a tried and tested rations program we successfully balance calories, carbohydrates, fats, proteins, and weight to create a variety of creative meals which promote strength and health. Up to Base Camp, mules carry fresh produce. As we gain altitude, specialized and lighter more easily digested foods are used. Examples include: hash browns, quesadillas, noodles, rice, mashed potatoes, Ramen, couscous, soups, tortellini, dried vegetables. AMS avoids freeze-dried meal-in-a-bags which lack in substance and flavor. Our rations come from organic wholesalers and a modern supermarket in Mendoza.
AMS starts its Aconcagua expedition in Mendoza, Argentina. Mendoza is one of the most enjoyable and pleasant cities in Argentina. Its unique layout, extensive use of trees and fountains, beautiful tiled plazas, and excellent food in an outdoor cafe environment make Mendoza a great starting and ending point.
Our climbing strategy and itinerary is designed to provide us with the most enjoyable experience and the best opportunity to summit.
Day 1, Mendoza
Most flights arrive mid-day and in the afternoon. A driver will meet you outside the baggage claim area and drive you to the hotel. Normally, we check equipment in your hotel room this afternoon. Should your baggage fail to arrive, which is often the case, we will check your equipment the following day.
Day 2, Mendoza
Logistics day in Mendoza, pick up extra items, retrieve lost luggage if necessary, get climbing permits, full expedition orientation before dinner .
Day 3, Mendoza, 2428'/740m to Penetentes, 8500'/2600m
After breakfast we check out of the hotel and load our gear into a private mini-bus. Our first stop is the Aconcagua Provincial Park office to pick up our permits. From there we drive on a high way that runs along the Rio Mendoza. After an hour we enter a small village, Ushpallata, and stop for lunch. Another couple hours of driving brings us to a wide mountain pass cresting the Andes Mountains. Penetentes is a ski resort village near our trailhead, Puente Del Inca, where we stay in a hotel and take a short acclimatization hike for views of Aconcagua. Extra gear and valuables can be stored at the hotel.
Day 4, Trailhead, 8924'/2720m to Approach Camp I "Confluencia", 10,500'/3200m
After we have breakfast and check out of the hotel, we drive a short distance to a scenic lake, Laguna Horcornes just northwest of a small army base called Puente del Inca and begin our mule-assisted approach up the Horcones Valley to base camp, Plazas De Mulas. Our first tent camp, Confluencia, is at the confluence of the Rio Horcornes Inferior and Rio Horcornes Superior. 5 miles.
Day 5, Acclimatization Day
Hike to Aconcagua's South Face, one of the biggest mountain faces in the world and a great photo opportunity day. Of note, the Park Service does not allow camping between Camp 1 and Base Camp. With such a big elevation gain early on in the climb it makes the most sense to take an acclimatization day and spend two nights at 10,500' before moving higher.
Day 6, Approach Camp I "Confluencia" to Base Camp: "Plaza de Mulas," 13,450'/4100m
A 10 mile day up the majestic Horcornes Valley to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp.
Day 7, Rest Day Organize loads for the next day.
Day 8, Carry to Camp 1 "Canada," 15,750'/4800m
Climb out of Basecamp up steep scree slopes with switch backs to Camp Canada and return to Basecamp.
Day 9, Acclimatization hike up Cerro Bonete, 16,700'/5100m
This is a great way to acclimatize with light day packs and set everyone up for being strong when committing to the upper mountain.
Day 10, Rest Day Base Camp, 13,450'/4100m
We take another rest day; it is the best way to build strength after exposing oneself to a higher elevation.
Day 11, Move to Camp I: "Canada", 15,750'/4800m
We leave the comforts of base camp and commit ourselves to the upper mountain. Porter assisted.
Day 12, Carry to Camp II "Nido," 17,700'/5400m
Exposing ourselves to higher altitude continues the acclimatization process.
Day 13, Move to Camp II "Nido", 17,700'/5400m
With the help of high altitude porters we establish ourselves on the upper flanks of Aconcagua.
Day 14, Rest at Camp II "Nido" or move to Camp III "White Rocks," 19,400'/5900m
After evaluating acclimatization amongst the team we decide whether to take a rest day or make a move to high camp.
Day 15, Rest at Camp III or Move to Camp III "White Rocks", 19,400'/5900m
Porter assisted move to our high camp.
Day 16 or 17 Summit Day, 22,834'
We leave our High Camp for a 12 hour day summit day. The first landmark we pass is Independencia, 20,790' - the remains of the highest hut in the world. We'll soak up the first rays of sun here before moving into the shadows again for El Paso del Viento, Pass of the Wind. This long and exposed traverse leads us into La Canaleta, 21,450'. The Canaleta is a 930' scree ravine and the longest and hardest part of the day. We'll hope for hard packed snow covering the scree. Nearing the top, expect a pace of 4-5 breaths a step. The final 300' traverses the summit ridge with spectacular views down the 10,000' south face. We like to spend an hour on the summit as long as conditions remain stable. Our controlled descent back to camp is rewarded with thicker air at every step.
Day 18, Descend to Base Camp, 13,450'/4100m
The descent is more direct than the ascent and is made easier by the scree.
Day 19, Hike out to Trailhead
Enjoy the hike out to the trail head with light day packs. Mini van meets us at the trail head. We drive back to Mendoza and the Plaza Hotel to check into our rooms and go out for a tasty Mendoza dinner.